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wicked93gs

1966 Mustang 3.7L V6 swap

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Well, after much measuring, remeasuring and a few small adjustments, I finally submitted the order for the adapter plates. They are 3/4" thick giving a total height of 4 3/4" from the head surface to the top of each TB...I decided not to o-ring either side  because I have seen the the lip of the port break away on pieces like this when people use the wrong sized o-ring so I decided I will just cut some paper gaskets to seal everything up(wont be the first time for that...and it works just fine). These aren't 100% finished plates and will require a little work on my end such as the hand-porting, and the ITBs have dowels that will need to be countersunk into the threaded holes that hold them to the plates, but the work will be minimal. Now just to way for 3 weeks till they come in...I guess its back to work on the headers in the meantime.

 

If anyone wants any info on measurements, or the file to make your own set let me know, I am happy to share all the relevant info. I do suggest waiting until I bolt them up with some pictures though to see how they fit.

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20191209_084232_zpszpdehr0a.jpg

Well, it looks confirmed....The Duratec30 fuel rail using injector spacers(I just bought a set of LS injector spacers) does indeed provide a bolt-up fuel rail solution for a returnless fuel system(or a return-style fuel system for that matter if you remove the Schrader valve from the other end and attach a braided stainless line to the threads(or a hose barb), There is one thing to remember though...the Duratec30 has a port spacing of 102mm vs the 106mm for the Duratec37...so injectors for cylinders 1,3,4,&6 will be angled going into the ports on the ITBs slightly. This will not really affect the function of the injector(except maybe making it spray a touch off-center...but you would never notice that anyway) but it might well affect the useful life of the injector o-rings...you might have to change o-rings every 50k miles or something. The only rail modification you would need to do to get this to fit is to modify the brackets. There are 4 brackets on the fuel rail...and out of the set of 8 throttle bodies...4 of them have bracket mounting bosses...so you would need to make sure to keep throttle bodies 1,3,5, and 8 if you feel the need for all 4 brackets to attach. TBs #1 and 8 each have a throttle position sensor boss(and sensor) that sticks out from the side of the TB by 2 1/4"...so if space is a constraint, its something to keep in mind. The advantage of having 2 throttle position sensors on the ITBs is that supposedly they could effectively replace the TPS sensors in the stock 3.7L throttle body and the 3.7L throttle pedal(this doesn't matter to me, but it gives the potential for people using the stock ECU to ditch the drive-by-wire setup with a small amount of electronic trickery and move to a cable throttle system for those who dislike the inherent lag in drive-by-wire systems...I know it has caused me to stall my Mazda 6 before where a cable throttle(analog system) would never stall

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20191209_140057_zpsgxkvgaut.jpg

 

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Also did some work on the bell crank setup...it will be actuated by throttle cable that lays in the channel and lay horizontally centered in the valley when it is finished...it would be pretty easy to adapt to the stock TB stepper motor simply by installing the throttle plate gear onto the bellcrank somehow.

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On a different front...my equal length longtubes are nearing completion:

 

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Just a little bit of work left on these, finishing up the collectors, and some cosmetic work...I was quite happy I managed to get all the primaries withing 1 inch of each other....35" primaries is what I ended up with

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