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Bananana

Welcome Project Gramps, 50 year old pony.....

What color should I paint her  

6 members have voted

  1. 1. Select a paint choice

    • (Original) Medium Blue Poly
    • Black
      0
    • Candy Apple Red
    • Grabber Blue
    • Grabber Green
      0
    • Grabber Orange
    • Wimbeldon White
      0
    • Royal Maroon [Shelby Mustang Carry Over Color]
      0
    • Black Jade Poly. [Shelby Mustang Carry Over Color]
      0
    • Current color like Magnetic Gray, Kona Blue, etc.


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Finished my goal this week, finished removing front bumper, separated the headlight buckets from stone deflector and cover, removed vacuum canister from passenger side of car, vacuum block, firewall braces and body harness and engine harness.

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Cleared out everything inside the cabin, just need to finish up removing the wiring and steering column.

Found they did the pans from firewall to the transition pan but stopped at the transition pan. Either this was the point in the work that the guy passed away or they just did not get to that section.

Its not in bad shape I hit it with my body hammer, found one spot that will need patching. Here is the thing. I need to replace the rear deck panel (where the gas cap is) and the transition panel is $199, but the entire trunk that includes the transition panel is just $100 more. So I am leaning towards purchasing the entire trunk because I can.....

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This past weekend was a severe bust productivity wise... The heat and humidity was really bad here like 97+ degrees and over 85% humidity with no clouds to be seen.  Good beach day, bad for wrenchin....  Items I still have left to do.

  • Remove doors, and rear windows/regulators and rear window.
  • Remove rear deck behind the rear seat.
  • Empty the trunk and remove the trunk lid.
  • Remove the quarter panel extensions.

Once this is done I am going to get in the car with my wire wheel and sander and clean up the rear extension panel section seen in the pics above and por-15 it.  We can patch that one little hole after the car comes back from blasting.

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1 hour ago, Bananana said:

This past weekend was a severe bust productivity wise... The heat and humidity was really bad here like 97+ degrees and over 85% humidity with no clouds to be seen.  Good beach day, bad for wrenchin.... 

 

I didn't get a choice, I still had to keep wrenchin' in this heat to pay the bills. :umbrage:

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I have officially completed my analysis of the 1970 Coupe and what needs to be done going forward and its alot of work but its not alot technically.  The car is very sound.  There are sections I could go the easy route, but I feel its in my best interest to replace what should be replaced over patches.  (One such item was a failed patch job so case in point.)  There are things that can be repaired or were in the process of being repaired but not well or completed that I feel may be better done just replaced such as the tail panel Etc.  Here is a list of items I am looking at, some of it I am already on but its just my general check list. 

Some items may change or be cut back such as doing the coilovers or staying with the traditional suspension etc.  That will all come down to budget and time.

Parts needing repair.

·         Drivers door front lower corner needs small patch work, rest of the door is solid.

·         Passenger door needs patch work but I have a replacement door as well as a spare parts door for patch materials

·         Drivers rear quarter before the rear tire needs fixing, it’s patched but not well.

·         Passenger side rear lower and front lower quarter panel was patched poorly, replace that entire quarter.  Possibly the drivers too depending on how much is involved.

·         Drivers front fender in good shape, passenger side fender needs patch at rear bottom, and some pinholes filled.

·         Drivers rear sail panel needs filling at holes I believe this can be welded

·         Front edge of the roof needs filling, I think it can be done with welding, I do have a spare front patch from a same year coupe that can be used if needed but holes are under .75” in size or smaller.

·         Passenger rear seating location at transition panel corner pocket needs patching.  Drivers side is solid.

·         Recondition the drive shaft or replace it with a performance shaft.  Depends on rear end.

Parts that need to be replaced outright

·         Rear tail panel

·         Upper and lower Cowl will need replacing as well as drivers side inside and outside lower cowl.  (damaged in accident and appears to have rusted as well.

·         Driver’s rear window regulator is seized for the quarter window, needs replacing.  Will replace all glass and all regulators with newer bolt in style late 1970 bolt on regulators with bolt on windows and will sell the existing glass and regulators that are in good shape.  I do not want the glue in early 1970 window setup.

·         Front body wiring harness and engine harness.  I will replace the entire wiring in the car as it is right now to update to better setup with halogen lighting support, as well as more accessories in fuse box.

·         Engine and trans needs to be looked at but I want to drop a 347 stroker and built C4 in there as well as do the gears.

·         Power brake conversion and rear disc brake conversion.

·         Coilover suspension in front and 4 link rear suspension in rear

·         New badges and grille emblem and trunk emblems

·         Windshield, rear windshield.

·         Window gaskets

·         Entire interior kit with new dash pad

·         Vintage Air kit for AC and heat.  Replacing old setup.

·         New front subframe with power steering rack

·         Replace shock towers or remove them when new suspension is in, or if I skip this and go stock suspension with updated shocks and springs to off set cost. 

·         Try to find replacement chrome trim for windows.  Drivers side looks good as well as passenger side but windshield and rear are not complete.

·         New bumpers and I want to get the GT rear valance for the dual exhaust cutouts.

·         New wheels and tires.  15s or 17s, I kind of want 17s.  magnum 500 style or bullet wheels.

Paint colors

Either the original Acapulco Blue or Magnetic grey metallic with either white racing stripes or matte black stripes, or ingot silver are my options.

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48 minutes ago, Bananana said:

 

Some items may change or be cut back such as doing the coilovers or staying with the traditional suspension etc.  That will all come down to budget and time.

 

This part was my downfall. I didn't want to put back the original parts for the mechanical stuff like steering/brakes/suspension especially since once you upgrade one thing, other parts need upgrading to match the physical parts in order to bolt together correctly.

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Right I understand that, however on my end since this is so new of a project, nothing has been done yet, if I swap out the power train now, everything with the rest of the car will be open to whatever at that point.....  In any case it all has to at least be updated just due to age..

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Still going strong gathering parts etc.  Got a new welder, been playing with a small flux welder for a couple of weeks  gotta get a 75/25 tank for final production welds when Im ready.

 

20200323_085011.jpg

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I have a new upper cowl, torque box and trunk brackets on the way. Once I take apart the drivers side cowl, and check things out I will have a better idea whats going on.

Still need more tools. Hammer and dolly set, spot weld cutter etc. Also need to get a transition pan to finish off the floors.

Unfortunately we lost a resouce as Mustangs unlimited closed thier doors.

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To be honest, for working with sheet metal I would return the flux welder and pay the extra for a MIG, flux core will want to burn through sheet metal a lot easier....although, you can actually use flux core wire in a MIG welder(with gas) with good results. If you are replacing the rear floor pan extensions anyway...all the 65-70 pans are the same shape...however, the 65 pans have a built-in e-brake cable channel. It can be useful to have that depending on your rear brake setup...it passes the e-brake cable over the rear frame rail and under the pan itself:

 

20190731_131732_zpsogcjfea4.jpg

 

Also, one area you need to examine closely is the rear ledge these pans sit on:

20190726_165154_zps9djmqtvy.jpg

20190726_175107_zpsxf2cw1wb.jpg

I had to hand-fab the area, since they don't sell it unless you get the whole "trunk floor"

 

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3 hours ago, wicked93gs said:

To be honest, for working with sheet metal I would return the flux welder and pay the extra for a MIG, flux core will want to burn through sheet metal a lot easier....although, you can actually use flux core wire in a MIG welder(with gas) with good results. If you are replacing the rear floor pan extensions anyway...all the 65-70 pans are the same shape...however, the 65 pans have a built-in e-brake cable channel. It can be useful to have that depending on your rear brake setup...it passes the e-brake cable over the rear frame rail and under the pan itself:

 

20190731_131732_zpsogcjfea4.jpg

 

Also, one area you need to examine closely is the rear ledge these pans sit on:

20190726_165154_zps9djmqtvy.jpg

20190726_175107_zpsxf2cw1wb.jpg

I had to hand-fab the area, since they don't sell it unless you get the whole "trunk floor"

 

Its not just a flux core that is the Mig 170 its flux/solid core welder but its 110/240v I will be doing gas mig welding the spot and stitch welds, and may only use the flux core on structural stuff if at all.  It is a middle of the road welder in that line up between the 140A and 200A.   I was going to go with a vulcan for the higher duty cycle but this welder was on sale and to be honest is more than I need.  I was given a Chicago Electric flux 90 welder but its not very good for the work I need to do, that was the one I was referencing, the one in the pic is the one I bought for the body work etc.

The Vulcan omni pro is not a bad welder either has a spot weld feature which is nice but I think I can deal with that manually lol.

They do make a transition pan that starts at trans hump just behind the front seats and it includes the shock mount and top of the rear trunk, but not the entire trunk, if you did not want to fab you could just get the transition pan and cut those rear buckets forward and graft it in like I am going to do, I do not need to replace the whole pan but since I will be in there anyway I may just do it to be complete.

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My bad, didn't look close enough and read well enough...yeah, the 170 will do fine...my ancient Mig151(10+ year old harbor freight special) did the job fine for all the metal work. I have a much nicer Vulcan ProTig200 but I didn't use it because TIG is just so much slower and more difficult when you are contorting around inside the car, but I am impressed enough by the Vulcan for the things I do use it for that I am considering picking up a Vulcan multi-process to replace the ancient Chicago Electric MIG. Another consideration since you are there anyway...think about getting the dual exhaust reinforcement panels, so the hangers dont tear through the new floors:

20190802_131535_zpsxyaiderv.jpg

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