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Stevethe11th

Getting my toes wet in autocross

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So I finally said what the hell and decided I should start doing some auotx. Just driving on the streets in Florida has gotten pretty boring since everything is just flat and straight. Does anyone have any tips on what to expect/do at an autox event or what handling mods should be done first? (besides wheels & tires, that's hopefully coming soon)

Also, as much as 2.73's suck, that's what I have and they are long. First gear runs out at 40 so I'm probably going to want to be in first out of most corners but it locks me out of first if I'm doing anything above 5 mph. Anyone know how to get around this?

My last problem is finding events and trying to find where all my free time has gone, but I'm not sure that's something you guys can help with. Lol.

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I live on the coastal bend of Texas & can relate to few elevation changes, but I have found s-curves & chicanes to enjoy. I go 1hr.30mins North to get into the Texas "Hill Country" where the fun really is. If you wind up going turbo for the Cyclone consider 3.55:1 gears. It depends on the track as to the best gearing for a particular day. 3.31:1 is a step up for you. As for mods, rear lower control arms and adjustable panhard bar is a good start.

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First and foremost, be relaxed and think through it all. My first few events was just adrenalin filled bullshit lol. Still fun, but I wasn't very good because of it... But I guess thats just kinda part of the learning.

 

The gearing isn't fantastic. IIRC, my first few were with 2.73's and honestly, meh. I don't think I shifted back down to first much. Even on a tight course for miatas... you likely wouldn't be going down to first anyways so I wouldn't worry so much about that. Remember, autox isn't about power, its about consistent speed and being able to handle the car well. Also, don't get hung up on your times vs others, just try and get better each time via learning the track a little better, looking a turn ahead and anticipating the pedal and steering inputs you will need to make to help get you on the best possible line.

 

As far as mods, tires. Wide, sticky tires. Then... suspensions needs to be stiffer, a lot stiffer. I have had GREAT luck and success with my koni yellows especially at the price I paid (AM accidental let me steal them from them basically, but they honored it lol). Lower control arms and a nice adj panhard bar go a long way as well. But, really, there is no replacement for seat time. I have thrown a lot of money at my car, and will continue to do so, but really the best way to get faster is just doing it more. Driver mod is key.....

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2 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

First and foremost, be relaxed and think through it all. My first few events was just adrenalin filled bullshit lol. Still fun, but I wasn't very good because of it... But I guess thats just kinda part of the learning.

 

The gearing isn't fantastic. IIRC, my first few were with 2.73's and honestly, meh. I don't think I shifted back down to first much. Even on a tight course for miatas... you likely wouldn't be going down to first anyways so I wouldn't worry so much about that. Remember, autox isn't about power, its about consistent speed and being able to handle the car well. Also, don't get hung up on your times vs others, just try and get better each time via learning the track a little better, looking a turn ahead and anticipating the pedal and steering inputs you will need to make to help get you on the best possible line.

 

As far as mods, tires. Wide, sticky tires. Then... suspensions needs to be stiffer, a lot stiffer. I have had GREAT luck and success with my koni yellows especially at the price I paid (AM accidental let me steal them from them basically, but they honored it lol). Lower control arms and a nice adj panhard bar go a long way as well. But, really, there is no replacement for seat time. I have thrown a lot of money at my car, and will continue to do so, but really the best way to get faster is just doing it more. Driver mod is key.....

Too bad you can't throw money at yourself. Lol

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Too bad you can't throw money at yourself. Lol

More seat time ;).


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So would it be better to go with coilovers or shocks and springs? I always thought that coilovers were the more expensive and better option, but looking at AM, the Koni yellow kit was more expensive than some of the coilover kits?

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So would it be better to go with coilovers or shocks and springs? I always thought that coilovers were the more expensive and better option, but looking at AM, the Koni yellow kit was more expensive than some of the coilover kits?

Coilovers are “better”, but shitty ones are shitty. I may be getting a new job soon, which comes with a little bit of a starting bonus, and I’m looking at spending a large amount more then what the yellows run....

So, to break it down, people who really track their mustangs seem to blow out yellows routinely. But they are also folks running 305/335 slicks and going full ham. For me, they have been great, I am just looking for something better and more tunable. For years these have been fantastic, and I’m honestly still not totally determined to change them up, I just have a feeling something like a kw v3 or a MCS TT1/2 would be a nice upgrade. That said, MCS TT2 fully set up is upwards of 4200 bucks.....

Vorshlag and company are big proponents of the Bilstein dampers over the koni’s. They are not adjustable but they apparently hold up way better. Unfortunately, for me, I don’t think I’d want to go backwards to a non adjustable (not really all that important) but mostly not ride height adjustable setup. If I do anything, I’ll want to get this SOB corner balanced and set up more seriously... coilovers provide that ability.

So, long story short, I would get Komi yellows if I were you. I did, and I have been very happy. I got mine in the AM 4th of July sale for under 500 bucks shipped, that’s a price that can’t be beat! Shit, if this new job works out and I decide to be retarded and buy new suspension, maybe I can give you a killer deal on my shocks, springs and CC plates...


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13 hours ago, LIGISTX said:


Coilovers are “better”, but shitty ones are shitty. I may be getting a new job soon, which comes with a little bit of a starting bonus, and I’m looking at spending a large amount more then what the yellows run....

So, to break it down, people who really track their mustangs seem to blow out yellows routinely. But they are also folks running 305/335 slicks and going full ham. For me, they have been great, I am just looking for something better and more tunable. For years these have been fantastic, and I’m honestly still not totally determined to change them up, I just have a feeling something like a kw v3 or a MCS TT1/2 would be a nice upgrade. That said, MCS TT2 fully set up is upwards of 4200 bucks.....

Vorshlag and company are big proponents of the Bilstein dampers over the koni’s. They are not adjustable but they apparently hold up way better. Unfortunately, for me, I don’t think I’d want to go backwards to a non adjustable (not really all that important) but mostly not ride height adjustable setup. If I do anything, I’ll want to get this SOB corner balanced and set up more seriously... coilovers provide that ability.

So, long story short, I would get Komi yellows if I were you. I did, and I have been very happy. I got mine in the AM 4th of July sale for under 500 bucks shipped, that’s a price that can’t be beat! Shit, if this new job works out and I decide to be retarded and buy new suspension, maybe I can give you a killer deal on my shocks, springs and CC plates...


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Might not be too opposed to that. I’m just worried about scrapping the car too much if it gets lowered. I think my ideal suspension would be bags just for the practicality but that’s too expensive.

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Might not be too opposed to that. I’m just worried about scrapping the car too much if it gets lowered. I think my ideal suspension would be bags just for the practicality but that’s too expensive.


Don’t bag it. Not if you care about handling. Bags look flushAF, but are not a performance option.

Also, I don’t scrape on much of anything. I’m on SR lowing springs and it’s a fantastic DD setup!


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12 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

 


Don’t bag it. Not if you care about handling. Bags look flushAF, but are not a performance option.

Also, I don’t scrape on much of anything. I’m on SR lowing springs and it’s a fantastic DD setup!


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I never thought bags were good for performance as well but I’ve been seeing some stuff where time attack cars are running bags. 🤷‍♂️

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I got a 4th of July $500.00 set of Koni yelows for my Cyclone & three months later sold the pony, wish I'd had the money to keep it. I can attest to their being a great shock setup. Seat time in my GT has really brought me along in skill level in the twisty's, I don't autocross. Dropping the GT was what got my ability to the next level & I hope I can get Blistein's for Coyote Red soon. Enjoy the learning & hope it never stops!

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Also is a panhard bar still useful even on stock suspension? From what I was reading it says that its main purpose is to relocate the axle once lowered. 

Is it basically just a cheaper watts-link?

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Also is a panhard bar still useful even on stock suspension? From what I was reading it says that its main purpose is to relocate the axle once lowered. 

Is it basically just a cheaper watts-link?

 

Yes, yes, no.

 

It is helpful because the poly bushings help reduce deflection of the rear end. It’s REQUIRED once lowered unless your just a dumb ass fool lol.

 

A watts is a panhard replacement but not exactly the same dealio. It accomplishes the same goal, but a watts is much more involved and expensive. It’s also much better... A watts allows the rear end to cycle vertically which is great because it doesn’t kick the axle and thus the wheels out to the side under compression and droop. This helps getting power down sooner coming out of a turn; it’s really just a lot better, full stop. That said, unless your very serious and racing for money/class titles, that 1000 bucks is better spent on almost anything else lol.

 

 

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28 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

 

Yes, yes, no.

 

It is helpful because the poly bushings help reduce deflection of the rear end. It’s REQUIRED once lowered unless your just a dumb ass fool lol.

 

A watts is a panhard replacement but not exactly the same dealio. It accomplishes the same goal, but a watts is much more involved and expensive. It’s also much better... A watts allows the rear end to cycle vertically which is great because it doesn’t kick the axle and thus the wheels out to the side under compression and droop. This helps getting power down sooner coming out of a turn; it’s really just a lot better, full stop. That said, unless your very serious and racing for money/class titles, that 1000 bucks is better spent on almost anything else lol.

 

 

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Yeah that's what I thought. And I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to be wasting money on something I don't need.

Really I don't need any of this but here I am wasting my money.

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If you have a fixed amount of money... Wheels tires is first (you already have the hawk pads, so thats good enough for now for sure), then if you can afford is, shocks and springs, if not, I would vote lower control arms and relocation brackets set on the highest setting. Relo's really made a big difference for me, but I was already lowered IIRC. Either way, the better LCA's felt great. Panhard I did after I lowered it cuz I didn't lower it A LOT, so it didn't kick the axle out much, still should have done that at the same time, but whatever.

 

So, something like that. 

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I'm just trying to figure out if it would be better to do a couple things at once.


Nope. Nothing to align on the rear end. The adjustable panhard will need to be adjusted, but you can do that yourself with a plumb bob and ruler.


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9 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

 


Nope. Nothing to align on the rear end. The adjustable panhard will need to be adjusted, but you can do that yourself with a plumb bob and ruler.


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Ok thanks.

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