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2012-2014 Mustang 6R80 Trans brake

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There are two versions of the trans brake; a two relay version that doesn't require tune changes and a three relay version that does.  I will only be doing the two relay version.  Also I have 

read that 2013-2014 Mustangs will throw a code and go in limp mode if they rev over 3000 rpm without moving.

 

Parts/tools that I used:

2 - 30 amp, 12 volt 5 pin relays

Inline ATM fuse holder

5 amp ATM fuse

Wire

Female quick disconnects

Heat shrink tubing

Soldering iron and solder

 

I had a hard time finding the relays locally.  I tried Advance Auto, Auto Zone and Ace Hardware before finding the right ones at O'Reilly.  Even then I had to go to two stores as they only had one in stock at each store.

 

Next is cutting the ECU wiring harness wires, connecting the relays, the ground, power and switch.

 

 

UPDATE:

I removed the wiring diagram for now until I can verify the wires on the ECU wiring harness to use.  I tried the wires at pins 44 and 45 that is out on the web.  But as my post below points out the wiring may be different on the 3.7 V6.  When I tried those two the trans brake held to 2500, I didn't try going higher than that.  But then when I tried driving away it was stuck in 1st gear.  I had to turn the car off and on again to reset the transmission.
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I'm glad I haven't cut the ECU wires yet.  I was verifying the information I've gathered across the interwebz and came across the diagram below.  According to it the pins are different on the V6 for ECU.  Instead of using pins 44 and 45 it looks like 43 and 44 should be used.  Is there some way I can verify this?  I got this from the 2011 Mustang Service Manual here: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=710&viewfile=030%20-%20Transmission%20Controls%20-%206R80.pdf

 

 

TransBrakeDifferentForV6.png

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I'm glad you are the first one trying this. ....... and that you found that information before cutting anything

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What's the purpose of this? Sounds useful but I have no idea what you're talking about lol

 

A trans brake engages two gears in the transmission at the same time to effective lock the transmission.  This allows the driver to rev the engine at the staging tree; higher than typically can be done with just foot braking the car.  Usually just holding the brakes and revving only allows the driver to rev a little bit before the car starts to creep because the brakes can't hold back the power of the engine.  By being able to rev higher, especially with a higher stall torque converter, you can rev up to the peak torque part of the powerband.

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I didn't get it done in time for the last test and tune so it got put on the back burner.  I'm trying to get another project done too before the Cyclone track rental.  Plus I ordered relay sockets and a plastic case to house them in and I'm waiting on those to get here to finish it.  I hate that Radio Shack closed and I can't run down there to get things.  I need to find a good local replacement.  I've found a couple good ones online but don't like waiting sometimes.

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Pics or links to relay sockets? May be installing mine this next week. Ken is sending me a revised tune with the 5.0 transbrake parameters in it to test. Not sure if it will work....

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Pics or links to relay sockets? May be installing mine this next week. Ken is sending me a revised tune with the 5.0 transbrake parameters in it to test. Not sure if it will work....

 

Socket

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/srly-2/socket-for-automotive-relay/1.html

 

Case

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/mb-132/abs-project-box-3.97-x-2.12-x-1.72/1.html

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Pics or links to relay sockets? May be installing mine this next week. Ken is sending me a revised tune with the 5.0 transbrake parameters in it to test. Not sure if it will work....

 

You doing the 2 or 3 relay version?

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I did the wiring for the switch inside the car and the power/ground wires are done on the relays.  I just need to cut the wiring harness and splice in the relays now.  I'll finish it up by Friday.  I ended up getting a 3 way switch and putting it in my center console where my line lock connectors are.  So when the 3 way switch is up it will make my trigger switch work for the line lock.  When the switch is down the trigger switch activates the trans brake instead.

 

This is a picture of the line lock setup.  I'll have to take a new one with the 3 way switch added.  The trigger switch velcros to the hand brake and plugs into sockets in the console with banana connectors.

 

Line_Lock_5.jpg

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No, was working on other bigger project and had issues with the fuel line leaking at the rail.  Decided to make custom rails instead.  Finally got the car running after being down a week.  I'll see about finishing the trans brake by this weekend.

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I removed the wiring diagram for now until I can verify the wires on the ECU wiring harness to use.  I tried the wires at pins 44 and 45 that is out on the web.  But as my post below points out the wiring may be different on the 3.7 V6.  When I tried those two the trans brake held to 2500, I didn't try going higher than that.  But then when I tried driving away it was stuck in 1st gear.  I had to turn the car off and on again to reset the transmission.

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I should have mine back sometime this week from PBH and will post pics of the wiring connections

 

Thanks.  What was weird was that the wire coloring on my car didn't match the V8 or V6 wiring as shown in the screenshot from the Ford service manual earlier in this thread.

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updates, reviews , anything??? i wanna buy this but i wanna see how you two like it first lol

 

I've been working on getting things done with the intake.  Chris sent me some pics for the wiring but I haven't had time to review and look at mine again yet.

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