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RaceRedCyclone

Long tube headers install

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Ok so I got 500 miles on the new 5.0 figure that's long enough. Already got gt500 axle backs time to finish the rest. I'm planning on going with jba lt and jba catted h pipe. When I did bbk shorties (first header install ever) on my v6 it was so easy I didn't have to take anything loose. Just unbolted stock headers and bolted up the new. Now with the gt I'm reading all these threads about dropping the k member and removing motor mounts and lifting the engine....I don't even know wtf or where that stuff is. However, I refuse to pay a shop $400+ and not get nothing out of it other than my new parts. I like to do things myself through instructions or with someone who has experience so I learn how to do it.

 

So if any of you guys that have done your own long tubes have some advice please fill me in cause from reading countless threads this is getting really discouraging to tackle myself.

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...if you are looking for discouragement, you wont find it here...  I installed the shorties myself, I bit easier, but nevertheless, a great home garage project! Got for it!

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You can certainly do it but be patient with yourself and leave a day at least.

 

Refer:

 

I will not BS you though; it's a helluva install.  A few things to note:

A 15mm stubby ratcheting wrench helps with header bolts.

Have a 3/8" swivel.

Have extensions in 3/8" from a few inches to several longer extensions.

Take off your front wheels.

Make sure you have a method to hold your steering wheel in place when you take off the steering shaft.

Do NOT forget to anti seize your header bolts.  I rushed and forgot to do this..................big mistake.

Be proud that you did this bitch.  Many talk long tubes but very few have the nutsack to do it themselves.

A six pack or 39 will help too.

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Yeah, from what I've gathered, it's not easy like the v6 and is as you described. Personally, I'd consider and H and a CAI, AED tune, etc and see if I was satisfied with the power.

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You can certainly do it but be patient with yourself and leave a day at least.

 

Refer:

 

I will not BS you though; it's a helluva install.  A few things to note:

A 15mm stubby ratcheting wrench helps with header bolts.

Have a 3/8" swivel.

Have extensions in 3/8" from a few inches to several longer extensions.

Take off your front wheels.

Make sure you have a method to hold your steering wheel in place when you take off the steering shaft.

Do NOT forget to anti seize your header bolts.  I rushed and forgot to do this..................big mistake.

Be proud that you did this bitch.  Many talk long tubes but very few have the nutsack to do it themselves.

A six pack or 39 will help too.

maybe a bottle off crown instead of that six pack bro! i did them on my 3.7 lots off room but still took a good day on jackstand i'm sure its a lot tougher on a 5.0

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maybe a bottle off crown instead of that six pack bro! i did them on my 3.7 lots off room but still took a good day on jackstand i'm sure its a lot tougher on a 5.0

I did the V6 in like 4 hours. Was really easy. I'm not worried about the actual install of the headers it's all the stuff you have to move/remove such as k member/motor mounts that im worried about. I've never touched any of the stuff that needs to be removed/loosened.

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...I did mine in two days, takin' my time. You will have to remove both motor mounts, and there is one 10mm from the starter that is a biatch!  ...there is an "straight" path from the front of the engine, accessible with 24" of extensions...

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...I did mine in two days, takin' my time. You will have to remove both motor mounts, and there is one 10mm from the starter that is a biatch!  ...there is an "straight" path from the front of the engine, accessible with 24" of extensions...

 

Once I realized that, it was SO easy and I felt like a complete clown haha.  Otherwise a TINY 1/4" socket wrench with a 3" (yes, I do have one of these for some reason) extension works perfectly fine.  Just more annoying.

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Having done my longtubes in about 9 hours with every advantage a professional technician can have, I honestly did not like the install. I too would recommend a mid pipe with stock headers especially if you ever think you will sell the car in the future.

 

If this is the car you will keep for a long time I'd spring for better quality parts than JBA. I put them with BBK as the bottom rung of the quality shelf. Go for Dynatech(mine, absoultely beautiful), Stainless Works, Kooks, or Bassani. Also maybe check out JPC as they might be manufacturing them again after a hiatus.

 

I know those are serious money, but the last thing you want to do is spend what's already a grand plus hours on your back only to be fighting exhaust leaks, rattles, vibrations, or any of the other commonly reported issues with longtubes. Also, whichever you choose if they come with O2 sensor extensions THROW THEM AWAY. DO NOT USE O2 SENSOR EXTENSIONS NO MATTER WHO TELLS YOU TO.

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AR freakin' H man!

 

 

 

THROW THEM AWAY. DO NOT USE O2 SENSOR EXTENSIONS NO MATTER WHO TELLS YOU TO.

 

 

+795791279129512751275167162765776575378927952729781676837385844942

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I don't usually recommend ARH due to their price. Sure they make quality stuff, but so do the other guys and they don't charge $1,500 just for the headers.

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I don't usually recommend ARH due to their price. Sure they make quality stuff, but so do the other guys and they don't charge $1,500 just for the headers.

 

Aye?  When I was shopping around at the time, ARH headers were about $1100 - $1200 for just the headers.  I'm wondering if you're seeing the whole lot because that's how a lot of distributors sell ARH hardware.  They sell the headers and mid pipe as a whole package and that's usually around $1500 - $1600.  I spent about $1400 total on my header and mid pipe package and they were on sale but were advertised separately.  Kooks headers are about $1000 right now, a little less for 1 3/4" primaries and a catted mid is about 500 - 600.

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Was actually looking at stainless power headers. Latemodel has them plus a bbr tune for $1130 for the headers and catted x pipe. Not sure i want an x though.

 

Good choice.  They're Stainless Works products.  Nothing wrong with them.  Why are you unsure about an X pipe?

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I'm pretty sure I prefer the deeper growl of an H as opposed to the race car X. This is based off of youtube videos atm though.

Your mufflers will dictate that the most.  It's been pretty much determined that x pipes just smoothen out note, not create rasp or zip.  If you want a deep growl, Borla touring.  Your GT500 mufflers will get a bit tinny sounding with the long tube setup.  With long tubes, the pitch is raised but it doesn't mean rasp.

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You will need resonators or mid-mufflers to keep a mature tone with minimal rasp. Longtubes or any off-road setup makes the exhaust very loud.

 

 

I don't recommend BBR for tuning purposes. Way too much to get into right now, just stick with the top name players for tuning.

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You will need resonators or mid-mufflers to keep a mature tone with minimal rasp. Longtubes or any off-road setup makes the exhaust very loud.

 

 

I don't recommend BBR for tuning purposes. Way too much to get into right now, just stick with the top name players for tuning.

I want loud just not raspy like some I've heard. Loved the exhaust on my v6 but that was shorties. I'll be keeping the resonators atm and def keeping the cats so I would think that should smooth out most of the exhaust note.

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I want loud just not raspy like some I've heard. Loved the exhaust on my v6 but that was shorties. I'll be keeping the resonators atm and def keeping the cats so I would think that should smooth out most of the exhaust note.

 

 

You can't keep the stock cats with longtubes. The high-flow cats that come with headers do little to keep the tone of the exhaust down, as with the stock resonators. I had to cut out the stock GT resonators and replace them with Pypes M80 mufflers.

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Have any of you ever heard of someone fab'ing their own mid pipe with the factory cats?  Yes, probably a terrible idea fitment wise and a waste of time/money but just curious.

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The sound change you get with LT's is what you get.  Just suck it up, it's worth it.

 

I've done 3 sets of headers on these cars.  It's a bitch every single time even with proper tools.  Get some stubby flex-head ratcheting wrenches from harbor freight, seriously.  Also, there's a ground on the stud/bolt that goes into one of the holes on the passenger side engine mount.  The guy at the factory puts this shit on with a impact gun.  The terminal on it is squished to like .05mm thin and as soon as you touch it, it will snap off probably.  I've had it happen all three times.  The terminal is a square type with flaps that wrap around the bold head so trying to get that MF'er off after it snaps off the terminal is the biggest PITA ever.  Have an extra terminal standing by for that.

 

Other than that it's really just a matter of getting to all the nuts on the studs and then taking most of the studs out.  You're going to have to have your arm shoved in there at a weird angle turning nuts like 1 click at a damn time until you get them off.  That's the main part of it.  Get the nuts you can get to off while the engine is down on the mounts.  Then take the steering, starter, engine mounts off and jack the engine up as far as it goes until it hits the tunnel (from the trans) and get to the rest of the nuts you can get to.  It helps to have another person with you for some of the stuff.

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The sound change you get with LT's is what you get. Just suck it up, it's worth it.

 

I've done 3 sets of headers on these cars. It's a bitch every single time even with proper tools. Get some stubby flex-head ratcheting wrenches from harbor freight, seriously. Also, there's a ground on the stud/bolt that goes into one of the holes on the passenger side engine mount. The guy at the factory puts this shit on with a impact gun. The terminal on it is squished to like .05mm thin and as soon as you touch it, it will snap off probably. I've had it happen all three times. The terminal is a square type with flaps that wrap around the bold head so trying to get that MF'er off after it snaps off the terminal is the biggest PITA ever. Have an extra terminal standing by for that.

 

Other than that it's really just a matter of getting to all the nuts on the studs and then taking most of the studs out. You're going to have to have your arm shoved in there at a weird angle turning nuts like 1 click at a damn time until you get them off. That's the main part of it. Get the nuts you can get to off while the engine is down on the mounts. Then take the steering, starter, engine mounts off and jack the engine up as far as it goes until it hits the tunnel (from the trans) and get to the rest of the nuts you can get to. It helps to have another person with you for some of the stuff.

what he said.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I told my girlfriend to shoot me in the face if I ever start talking about doing longtubes myself before I have a proper garage and the ability to leave the car on stands for more than a day. 

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I told my girlfriend to shoot me in the face if I ever start talking about doing longtubes myself before I have a proper garage and the ability to leave the car on stands for more than a day. 

 

 

Haha yeah it isn't something to just do in an afternoon unless you have tiny hands or an endless supply of beer(slurpees in my case). I installed mine at work on a lift and it still sucked so bad.

 

 

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