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Found 6 results

  1. Hello all, I am new to the S197 platform, thus I have a few questions. I want to run some wider tires but I don't really want to fork over a lot of money for new wheels right now. I am currently running 215/65R/17's. Anyone have experience running wider tires? I could use some suggestions.
  2. A work in progress, feel free to add corrections/ better photos. Partial credit to AFM member Nightmare37. 19x9" Brembo, +42mm, ~30-31lbs 18x8 GT base, +44 19x8.5 GT premium, +50mm 19x8.5 California Special, +50mm, ~31lbs 17x7 V6 base, +40mm, ~22.6lbs 18x8 V6 Pony Package/MCA, +44mm, ~26lbs 19x8.5 V6 Performance Package, +50mm
  3. These are the 18x9 SVE Drifts and when I weighed them they were no more than 23lbs each. They currently have 275/45/18 M&H Drag Radials mounted to them. The DR's have about 1k street miles and no more than 10 passes with burnouts no longer than 5 secs. The tits on the tires wore off about 500 miles ago and were only street driven from Oct to Dec 2013. They have always been stored when not in use in an attached garage on a rack. There is no cracking at all and retain over 80% of tread depth. When not at the track, I drove like grandma on them and never drove in the rain the little time they were on the car. The wheels, there is no sign that they are not new. These will come with the black splined lug nuts that work these wheels. SVE Drifts and M&H DR's- 600 shipped --> $500 shipped as of 1/28/2015 1/28/2015- Since I traded the car in, I have the Steeda Strut Tower Brace that I installed last May. Looks great. Aluminum Steeda plated was regularly sealed with polish. Looks new. Make an offer. If you are interested in these DR's, the 94-2010 Mustang (and 2011-14 3.7) SVE Drag Skinnies, and the Steeda STB...or some combination thereof...I'll bundle for a better deal. Thanks for looking and please pass it on!
  4. Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. These torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, shop repair manual or obtained from your vehicle dealer. Wheel lug torque specifications are for clean threads that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs. That can result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over torquing of the hardware. Once lugs are snugged down by hand, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort. Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above. I borrowed this from Tirerack. It just occurred to me we could use one of these factoids too and they had some nice torque sequence pics too so I just copied it all. I bolded and italicized an important part they said casually. This is very true in engine building, from my experience, due to breakaway torque. Though the torque wrench may "click" or show it's at spec, that may not be the case due to breakaway torque. Breakaway torque- In physics and mechanics, torque is rotational force, or the force necessary to cause an object to rotate around an axis. In most cases, more torque is needed to start the rotational motion than is needed to keep it going once it has begun. This initial force is called breakaway torque. The amount of breakaway torque needed to move something is determined in part by static friction. Static friction is the force that exists between two physical bodies to keep them from moving. So to avoid false readings, you always smoothly move the torque wrench and tighten up to the torque value you need. Additionally, if you choose to torque up to the final value in stages, to keep breakaway torque from affecting the final value, always at least keep the torque steps a minimum of 15lb-ft apart. IE Doing a 3 stage torque process to 100 lb-ft. I might start at 50 lb-ft. Well, the next value I set the torque wrench to (on a clicker style torque wrench) should at least be 15 lb-ft higher. So if we torque to 50, 75, then 100...that more than covers the minimum of 15lb-ft change and keeps breakaway torque from being a factor. New wheels need to be re-torqued. Using the torque sequence pictured above for a 5 lug wheel, our Mustangs will need to be torqued to 100lb-ft. Using both the torque sequence pictured above AND also doing an incremental torque (50,75,100lb-ft) to each wheel is my personal preference. It can also cut down on potential vibrations this way. Thanks for reading. I just wanted people who may be new to the automotive hobby to be safe.
  5. Okay.. So for the 2012 v6 BASE package tires, are they 17x7? (Not premium!) What size radials can work on the stock v6 wheels? Was looking at 235/55r17 sized radials. Thanks!
  6. As the title states, only catch is must be in the Pacific North west, would sooo much prefer not crossing the border aswell... Will drive a decent distance for the right price.
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