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Bananana

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Bananana last won the day on August 13

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About Bananana

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    Mansfield
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    Massachusetts
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    Member 2013

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  1. I think the overall cost was about $1600 to $2500 if I recall, as I sold off the existing auto setup to offset the cost, I paid nearly nothing for the transmission due to the offset, but did have to shell out cash for the extra labor as the trans needed to be rebuilt, and partially for some parts, plus the extras I did buy separately like the center console top section, the barton shifter etc. It was very reasonable.
  2. I think thats the size of the standart PP front tires on the S550s. They were a little small to me so I went up to 275s instead and they fill out nicely, and are nice and square on the rims, even on the 9" fronts they do not bulge or anything.
  3. Right I understand that, however on my end since this is so new of a project, nothing has been done yet, if I swap out the power train now, everything with the rest of the car will be open to whatever at that point..... In any case it all has to at least be updated just due to age..
  4. I have officially completed my analysis of the 1970 Coupe and what needs to be done going forward and its alot of work but its not alot technically. The car is very sound. There are sections I could go the easy route, but I feel its in my best interest to replace what should be replaced over patches. (One such item was a failed patch job so case in point.) There are things that can be repaired or were in the process of being repaired but not well or completed that I feel may be better done just replaced such as the tail panel Etc. Here is a list of items I am looking at, some of it I am already on but its just my general check list. Some items may change or be cut back such as doing the coilovers or staying with the traditional suspension etc. That will all come down to budget and time. Parts needing repair. · Drivers door front lower corner needs small patch work, rest of the door is solid. · Passenger door needs patch work but I have a replacement door as well as a spare parts door for patch materials · Drivers rear quarter before the rear tire needs fixing, it’s patched but not well. · Passenger side rear lower and front lower quarter panel was patched poorly, replace that entire quarter. Possibly the drivers too depending on how much is involved. · Drivers front fender in good shape, passenger side fender needs patch at rear bottom, and some pinholes filled. · Drivers rear sail panel needs filling at holes I believe this can be welded · Front edge of the roof needs filling, I think it can be done with welding, I do have a spare front patch from a same year coupe that can be used if needed but holes are under .75” in size or smaller. · Passenger rear seating location at transition panel corner pocket needs patching. Drivers side is solid. · Recondition the drive shaft or replace it with a performance shaft. Depends on rear end. Parts that need to be replaced outright · Rear tail panel · Upper and lower Cowl will need replacing as well as drivers side inside and outside lower cowl. (damaged in accident and appears to have rusted as well. · Driver’s rear window regulator is seized for the quarter window, needs replacing. Will replace all glass and all regulators with newer bolt in style late 1970 bolt on regulators with bolt on windows and will sell the existing glass and regulators that are in good shape. I do not want the glue in early 1970 window setup. · Front body wiring harness and engine harness. I will replace the entire wiring in the car as it is right now to update to better setup with halogen lighting support, as well as more accessories in fuse box. · Engine and trans needs to be looked at but I want to drop a 347 stroker and built C4 in there as well as do the gears. · Power brake conversion and rear disc brake conversion. · Coilover suspension in front and 4 link rear suspension in rear · New badges and grille emblem and trunk emblems · Windshield, rear windshield. · Window gaskets · Entire interior kit with new dash pad · Vintage Air kit for AC and heat. Replacing old setup. · New front subframe with power steering rack · Replace shock towers or remove them when new suspension is in, or if I skip this and go stock suspension with updated shocks and springs to off set cost. · Try to find replacement chrome trim for windows. Drivers side looks good as well as passenger side but windshield and rear are not complete. · New bumpers and I want to get the GT rear valance for the dual exhaust cutouts. · New wheels and tires. 15s or 17s, I kind of want 17s. magnum 500 style or bullet wheels. Paint colors Either the original Acapulco Blue or Magnetic grey metallic with either white racing stripes or matte black stripes, or ingot silver are my options.
  5. I got my new pipes in from DepoRacing out of CA. Very good build quality I cannot tell these apart from my Mishimoto charge pipes I had. Couplers and tbolt clamps are excellent. For $180 its hard to argue the value of these, these are $100 less than the cheapest listed charge pipes SR performance on AMs site, and nearly $200 cheaper than Mishimoto, etc. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  6. I fixed my boost leak problem this weekend, charge pipe keeps popping off. I think the silicone coupler is just way too soft... I have new charge pipes coming this week so should be good, but having to keep getting under there is a pain.. I also finally installed my control arm while under there, so much easier than my explorer lol, just two bolts and no puller needed... Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  7. This past weekend was a severe bust productivity wise... The heat and humidity was really bad here like 97+ degrees and over 85% humidity with no clouds to be seen. Good beach day, bad for wrenchin.... Items I still have left to do. Remove doors, and rear windows/regulators and rear window. Remove rear deck behind the rear seat. Empty the trunk and remove the trunk lid. Remove the quarter panel extensions. Once this is done I am going to get in the car with my wire wheel and sander and clean up the rear extension panel section seen in the pics above and por-15 it. We can patch that one little hole after the car comes back from blasting.
  8. Thats an interesting comment "Starved for Oil" If the cover increases volume you would fill up like the normal procedure anyway, and the the Pinion bearing does not change its position in the carrier because of the diff cover swap. So I am curious to the reason your mechanic stated this. Most covers have baffles in them to prevent oil not getting to parts during turns etc. I am curious again why it would or could get starved for oil.... I had a square Ford Performance cover on my 11 vert when I did my gears and drove about 80K on it with no issues.
  9. Cleared out everything inside the cabin, just need to finish up removing the wiring and steering column. Found they did the pans from firewall to the transition pan but stopped at the transition pan. Either this was the point in the work that the guy passed away or they just did not get to that section. Its not in bad shape I hit it with my body hammer, found one spot that will need patching. Here is the thing. I need to replace the rear deck panel (where the gas cap is) and the transition panel is $199, but the entire trunk that includes the transition panel is just $100 more. So I am leaning towards purchasing the entire trunk because I can..... Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  10. Finished my goal this week, finished removing front bumper, separated the headlight buckets from stone deflector and cover, removed vacuum canister from passenger side of car, vacuum block, firewall braces and body harness and engine harness. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  11. They cut the cowl and attempted to mate a section from another car instead of replacing the cowl as a unit and the lower portion. Afterward the plastered bondo over it (painted black). So it rotted at the seam as seen in the pic above, unlike the passenger side which is mint for its age. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  12. After removing the front clip its very apparent why there is so much body work on the drivers door.... Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  13. Yeah pretty much all the builders use the 2.0L block, or swap the 2.0L heads for the manifold after modifying things a little.
  14. Shit your right for some reason I keep seeing them with those inserts (like the Mountune blocks), I know they are a different design I keep forgetting its where the water jackets run in them. For some reason I keep finding them with those block off plates. Yes the 2.0 are nearly solid decks just larger amount of surface area around the cylinders, appears to be the go to for the 2.3L replacement block for re builders.
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