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Bananana last won the day on March 29

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About Bananana

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    Member 2013

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  1. Its not just a flux core that is the Mig 170 its flux/solid core welder but its 110/240v I will be doing gas mig welding the spot and stitch welds, and may only use the flux core on structural stuff if at all. It is a middle of the road welder in that line up between the 140A and 200A. I was going to go with a vulcan for the higher duty cycle but this welder was on sale and to be honest is more than I need. I was given a Chicago Electric flux 90 welder but its not very good for the work I need to do, that was the one I was referencing, the one in the pic is the one I bought for the body work etc. The Vulcan omni pro is not a bad welder either has a spot weld feature which is nice but I think I can deal with that manually lol. They do make a transition pan that starts at trans hump just behind the front seats and it includes the shock mount and top of the rear trunk, but not the entire trunk, if you did not want to fab you could just get the transition pan and cut those rear buckets forward and graft it in like I am going to do, I do not need to replace the whole pan but since I will be in there anyway I may just do it to be complete.
  2. I have a new upper cowl, torque box and trunk brackets on the way. Once I take apart the drivers side cowl, and check things out I will have a better idea whats going on. Still need more tools. Hammer and dolly set, spot weld cutter etc. Also need to get a transition pan to finish off the floors. Unfortunately we lost a resouce as Mustangs unlimited closed thier doors.
  3. Still going strong gathering parts etc. Got a new welder, been playing with a small flux welder for a couple of weeks gotta get a 75/25 tank for final production welds when Im ready.
  4. We the problem here is that we have a single lane driveway at my house so whichever vehicle is parked last has to be moved. Yeah she does not take care when driving my car even though I have shown her how to parallel park using the passenger mirror for curbs, or just park away from everyone and back into a space using the camera etc. At this point I have given up on telling her to drive "better" for a lack of a better term. The thing is at this point I just have given up on the banana as far as what she does to it, the only thing she has not done yet is drive into it with her car, which I am sure I just jinxed myself by saying and not I should be expecting that to be the new thing. I am ordering a new bumper painted and I am getting a front firing sensor/camera that integrates into my head units video input. It allows the driver to hold the ok button the steering wheels media controls to turn the front camera on while parking. Hopefully that will solve the parking issue. However I may be trading in the banana in the Spring for a F150 and putting my focus into the 70 coupe going forward unless I get the bug again lol.....
  5. Bananana

    Eclypse3demon's Ride

    2011 Mustang 3.7L V6 Convertible. Custom two tone paint House of Kolor Kandy base coat Tangerine over Jet Black
  6. Here we are once again with another wife destroys the Banana saga. Ok so far to date the little woman has curbed 9 wheels, destroyed one Diff, pinion flange, two axles, 3 hubs and bearings, and 4 tires all from curbing. This is 3 continentals and one Pzero wintersoto tire. She has also lost one lower air dam, and scraped the passenger front fender and bumper. Today we can add the whole front bumper to the list as she yet again hit a curb, and pushed the bumper back far enough to break the tabs off the passenger side bumper support bracket..... This list is getting really long now.
  7. I think the overall cost was about $1600 to $2500 if I recall, as I sold off the existing auto setup to offset the cost, I paid nearly nothing for the transmission due to the offset, but did have to shell out cash for the extra labor as the trans needed to be rebuilt, and partially for some parts, plus the extras I did buy separately like the center console top section, the barton shifter etc. It was very reasonable.
  8. I think thats the size of the standart PP front tires on the S550s. They were a little small to me so I went up to 275s instead and they fill out nicely, and are nice and square on the rims, even on the 9" fronts they do not bulge or anything.
  9. Right I understand that, however on my end since this is so new of a project, nothing has been done yet, if I swap out the power train now, everything with the rest of the car will be open to whatever at that point..... In any case it all has to at least be updated just due to age..
  10. I have officially completed my analysis of the 1970 Coupe and what needs to be done going forward and its alot of work but its not alot technically. The car is very sound. There are sections I could go the easy route, but I feel its in my best interest to replace what should be replaced over patches. (One such item was a failed patch job so case in point.) There are things that can be repaired or were in the process of being repaired but not well or completed that I feel may be better done just replaced such as the tail panel Etc. Here is a list of items I am looking at, some of it I am already on but its just my general check list. Some items may change or be cut back such as doing the coilovers or staying with the traditional suspension etc. That will all come down to budget and time. Parts needing repair. · Drivers door front lower corner needs small patch work, rest of the door is solid. · Passenger door needs patch work but I have a replacement door as well as a spare parts door for patch materials · Drivers rear quarter before the rear tire needs fixing, it’s patched but not well. · Passenger side rear lower and front lower quarter panel was patched poorly, replace that entire quarter. Possibly the drivers too depending on how much is involved. · Drivers front fender in good shape, passenger side fender needs patch at rear bottom, and some pinholes filled. · Drivers rear sail panel needs filling at holes I believe this can be welded · Front edge of the roof needs filling, I think it can be done with welding, I do have a spare front patch from a same year coupe that can be used if needed but holes are under .75” in size or smaller. · Passenger rear seating location at transition panel corner pocket needs patching. Drivers side is solid. · Recondition the drive shaft or replace it with a performance shaft. Depends on rear end. Parts that need to be replaced outright · Rear tail panel · Upper and lower Cowl will need replacing as well as drivers side inside and outside lower cowl. (damaged in accident and appears to have rusted as well. · Driver’s rear window regulator is seized for the quarter window, needs replacing. Will replace all glass and all regulators with newer bolt in style late 1970 bolt on regulators with bolt on windows and will sell the existing glass and regulators that are in good shape. I do not want the glue in early 1970 window setup. · Front body wiring harness and engine harness. I will replace the entire wiring in the car as it is right now to update to better setup with halogen lighting support, as well as more accessories in fuse box. · Engine and trans needs to be looked at but I want to drop a 347 stroker and built C4 in there as well as do the gears. · Power brake conversion and rear disc brake conversion. · Coilover suspension in front and 4 link rear suspension in rear · New badges and grille emblem and trunk emblems · Windshield, rear windshield. · Window gaskets · Entire interior kit with new dash pad · Vintage Air kit for AC and heat. Replacing old setup. · New front subframe with power steering rack · Replace shock towers or remove them when new suspension is in, or if I skip this and go stock suspension with updated shocks and springs to off set cost. · Try to find replacement chrome trim for windows. Drivers side looks good as well as passenger side but windshield and rear are not complete. · New bumpers and I want to get the GT rear valance for the dual exhaust cutouts. · New wheels and tires. 15s or 17s, I kind of want 17s. magnum 500 style or bullet wheels. Paint colors Either the original Acapulco Blue or Magnetic grey metallic with either white racing stripes or matte black stripes, or ingot silver are my options.
  11. I got my new pipes in from DepoRacing out of CA. Very good build quality I cannot tell these apart from my Mishimoto charge pipes I had. Couplers and tbolt clamps are excellent. For $180 its hard to argue the value of these, these are $100 less than the cheapest listed charge pipes SR performance on AMs site, and nearly $200 cheaper than Mishimoto, etc. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  12. I fixed my boost leak problem this weekend, charge pipe keeps popping off. I think the silicone coupler is just way too soft... I have new charge pipes coming this week so should be good, but having to keep getting under there is a pain.. I also finally installed my control arm while under there, so much easier than my explorer lol, just two bolts and no puller needed... Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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