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wicked93gs last won the day on March 24

wicked93gs had the most liked content!

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About wicked93gs

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  1. My bad, didn't look close enough and read well enough...yeah, the 170 will do fine...my ancient Mig151(10+ year old harbor freight special) did the job fine for all the metal work. I have a much nicer Vulcan ProTig200 but I didn't use it because TIG is just so much slower and more difficult when you are contorting around inside the car, but I am impressed enough by the Vulcan for the things I do use it for that I am considering picking up a Vulcan multi-process to replace the ancient Chicago Electric MIG. Another consideration since you are there anyway...think about getting the dual exhaust reinforcement panels, so the hangers dont tear through the new floors:
  2. To be honest, for working with sheet metal I would return the flux welder and pay the extra for a MIG, flux core will want to burn through sheet metal a lot easier....although, you can actually use flux core wire in a MIG welder(with gas) with good results. If you are replacing the rear floor pan extensions anyway...all the 65-70 pans are the same shape...however, the 65 pans have a built-in e-brake cable channel. It can be useful to have that depending on your rear brake setup...it passes the e-brake cable over the rear frame rail and under the pan itself: Also, one area you need to examine closely is the rear ledge these pans sit on: I had to hand-fab the area, since they don't sell it unless you get the whole "trunk floor"
  3. So far so good. I think I am going to go with the tap and drill method. I am confident the passenger side hole can't hit anything....as for the driver's side hole, I doubt it will hit any water passages or oil galleys either(assuming a reasonable depth) I cant imagine they would run differently in the ecoboost head vs the cyclone...and worst case scenario, even if I drilled into one, I could just install some thread sealant on the bolt securing the crossover down and it wouldn't be a problem....people plug oil galley holes with bolts/plus all the time in various head conversions without issue. The only issue I can see is getting the passenger side hole started correctly might be a bit of a challenge...since it falls on the slope past the machined surface as you can see in the picture....but that is the beauty of transfer punches...I highly recommend buying a set for anyone who does a lot of fab work...one of my favorite tools.
  4. Works for me, just get me a price shipped to 37033 and your email and I can send a paypal payment
  5. Did you ever manage to dig out that ecoboost 3.5L water tube and crossover pipe? Getting close now to when I will need them: Stripping the wiring down to the bare minimum at this point so its just those water pipes and some flexplate/flywheel pieces I need to get the engine to a point I can turn it over and hopefully get it idling.....well, and some type of temp fuel pump to hook up to a gas jug.
  6. Still having trouble welding aluminum...no real surprise there, just starting out TIG welding aluminum and don't have enough experience for this particular task...I may well re-start and outsource this task...or rather, outsource the initial set of stacks while I practice welding more to make my own(since I would like to have several different lengths available) I am getting better...but aluminum is so soft that I have collapsed several pieces already putting too much heat into them and I am getting tired of re-making flanges and wasting tubing.
  7. I am sure I will need the same area cut for the adapter plates...they are pretty close in shape and size to your flanges after all. Did you re-drill and tap the head out of curiosity for the different ecoboost 3.5 bolt pattern?
  8. Unclenard....do you still have that Ecoboost 3.5 coolant crossover and coolant pipe you were using with your manifold? If so, interested in offloading them? I am collecting the parts needed to start the engine on the stand, and those 2 are on the list.
  9. This weekend I did some work on getting flanges on the throttle bodies. While there is nothing technically wrong with the coupler setup, by adding true flanges, if I ever choose to use forced induction on the car, I eliminate a lot of possible boost leaks: I beveled the inside slightly to gain more clearance for the fuel rail...last thing I need is some crazy rubbing that punctures the rail and spills gas all over the engine bay. And then...ran out of argon for the TIG...but at least I got the tubing tacked to the flanges...the clocking here is critical...I have almost no space between the tubes in a crossover setup...and the crossover setup is needed to maximize room within the shock tower brace.
  10. Haha...I am in bad need of doing and "old people's" bath remodel myself...bought the house with a walk-in tub...talk about annoying.
  11. And I thought the stock manifold was bad for hood clerance...
  12. yeah...I got that same valve to port measurement last time I had the ITBs off...one thing I have to keep in mind though is that while air horns are very similar to intake manifold runners...they arent exactly the same...the location of the throttle plate changes some characteristics . The VCT also plays into this in a huge way...a lot of people with ITBs will just throw on whatever air horn fits, and then use aftermarket camshafts to complement them...in this case, I suspect that both this ITB setup and your own fabbed manifold would greatly benefit from re-tuning the VCT....neither one is going to be even close to the characteristics of a stock manifold....so your manifold really might not have failed nearly as bad as you first assumed...you never changed the VCT settings. I think you should try again with some data logging to see what is really going on.
  13. The aluminum intercooler piping came in today(velocity stack tubing). In this picture, the tubing length is actually 2" or so longer than the BMW stacks. What do you think Unclenard? What length should I make my runners? Stock length from the head surface to the plenum is roughly 15" or so...the length in the picture posted above is about the same...however the stock runners taper most of the distance...these do not taper until they hit the throttle bodies...so if I made them the same length I would not gain anything on the low end really...I would just needlessly choke the top end. I have some latitude here to go shorter...the question is how much shorter am I able to go and still retain good torque under the majority of the curve? Looks like I have a significant amount of TIG welding to do this weekend once I settle on runner length.
  14. So the Weber carb velocity stacks came in today....A conundrum here...the inside diameter at the flange is 45mm....the Inside diameter of the aluminum tubing I am going to be using is 47mm...and the ITBs at the throttle plate are 50mm. I am not worried about the slight increase in size at the throttle plate because the only time that will be anything but positive pressure is going to be WOT...and WOT any drop in velocity is going to be insignificant enough I should be able to ignore it...but that isnt the case in a transition from 45-47mm right after the bellmouth...its going to hurt velocity...the question is simply whether its going to be significant. There are a couple solutions though...I can cut the stacks up the flange about an inch or so...I calculate that ID at that point will be 47mm...but that leaves me without a flange, though I suppose I can weld the ears of the flange back onto it afterward...if I didnt need an airbox or common filter for each box, I could simply flare the end of the aluminum pipe with an exhaust pipe expander tool and slip the bellmouth into it in a press fit(I suppose I can do that anyway really....with a press fit I don't actually need a flange for anything but a backing plate anyway...and that flange can be welded to the pipe itself) I can also cut the flange off flush and expand the bottom of the velocity stack to 47mm with the exhaust flare tool...but I am simply not sure how uniformly those exhaust tools really flare a pipe.
  15. I used 3M Marine 5200 to glue the cut-down couplers to the flanges....this seems to have done the trick...its a viable method...and now that I have found a simple method anyone can do....I am turning to something else entirely: Not bad for a hand-cut flange using just a hole saw and an angle grinder is it? I gave in and decided the best bet was to weld a 3/8" aluminum flange to each throttle body...not that I have welded any of them yet...need a couple hours practicing on the TIG before I attempt it...throttle bodies are one part I really don't want to mess up....besides I have to disassemble them all first to be able to get the room I need to get the TIG torch and filler rod around the throttle springs.
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