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LIGISTX

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LIGISTX last won the day on January 9

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About LIGISTX

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    Male
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    Los Angeles
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    California
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    Member 2014

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  1. Welding aluminum is the easiest way to turn metal into Swiss cheese. Lol. I have only done it for about 2 total hours worth of time, including set up, dick around, blow some holes, blow more holes, and then move on to stainless lol. It was ~10 years ago in freshmen intro to welding. Gooooood times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Epic! So epic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. OPMustangs high temp caliper dust boots on, and man, the old burnt ones were a huge pain to take off. All but two came off easy, but the two that were cooked took a solid hour to get off just slowly picking and poking them apart. Also, vorshlag did me dirty, had to use a drill press mill to open this hole up cleanly for my brake ducting back plate. Also, at full lock my tires run on the ducts, not sure if that is normal or not... and I do have steering stops so it’s not even normal full lock. I’ll have to inquire on FB I suppose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. CF works basically the same as glass. They eve. Have resins that work for both. But your correct, could do base layers as glass and cover with CF just to look the part. I vote for this plan! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Could always 3d print the pieces and lay CF on those, and then break the 3d print out... giving you sexy CF stacks. Wouldn’t be that hard either! Maybe more work than it’s worth, but that could totally work. Put a peel ply layer between the CF and the print and it would totally work, probably. The resin may stick to the print to much and it would be hard to break out. But I’m sure there is material specific for this application. My buddy is the RE for CF stuff here at work, I can always ask him for the name. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. MPT PRX tune is in, definitely more engine braking after jumping off the pedal up top. Its still a drive by wire, they can only do so much, but it is improved which is nice. All the amazing backfires, are gone. I assume this is because the aggressive engine braking? No fuel being added and cam timing being adjusted? I am not sure, I asked, and because I am 12 at heart, I asked if it would be possible to tune them back in bellow 3500 RPM so when I am around town I can be a turd. Motor feels strong, what is most notable is it feels less peaky and more fluid and smooth. Who knows, it may make less torque overall, only a dyno would really be able to tell me im sure, but it is more fluid and uniform. Best way I can describe it, I always said my fathers 997.1 Carrera 4s felt like it had smooth power delivery, this feels more akin to that. Its no Porsche motor, but it is leaning more towards that direction than previously. It feels a little less pissed off up top based on the sound, but thats hard to know, and I can imagine it needs some learning. I saw 0 max knock and -6 min. I sent the log to MPT, we will see what they come back with.
  7. I don’t have access to one at work, wish I did... but a buddy does. It’s a 3D printer that would actually make a part strong enough for this application. The ones I can use are normal layer printers, he has a liquid bed that solidifies the part shape as it grows, basically as close to injection molding as you can get without actually injection molding. To bad I don’t have one, could make one hell of a cool velocity stack system to your exact specifications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Solid points. My brain saw velocity stacks and just went carbureted motor, obviously I know this is not. But I didn’t even think about it... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. You could make two air boxes, one for each side. Or, run it without! Lol. Looks so amazing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Since death sounds pretty shitty... 6 bottles of RBF600 are on their way, Vorshalg brake cooling ducts, power bleeder for both S197 and S550 and new high temp dust boots from opmustang, along with new bg trans fluid from OP as well, and I will be doing a diff flush as while I am at it.
  11. pads look fine, outer dust boots are hammered tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Well, another successful track day, mostly. I am certainly getting a lot faster, we ran streets of willow CCW today, which was way weird seeing as I am used to CW. Three mustangs dominated the intermediate group, we left everyone else literally in our brake dust. It was fantastic. A dude my friend Brent met last track day in a 5.0, 305/315 Cup 2's, suspension (im not sure what kind), nothing super crazy but good track experience was first with a low 1:30, buddy in a 4.6 with 295/325 Nitto Invo's, a very nice tune, not much else ran second with high 1:30, and this was his second track day!!!! He is a fucking god. Then me, with my very inadequate MPSS's in 275 ran a 1:33 high. They got their 1:30's on the last session of the day, track was warmed up a bit, when we got there it was 17 degrees, F, not C... Tires were not happy. Last session I didn't go very fast for reasons I will explain in a sec. The time I did 1:33 high they did 1:32 high's. And the fastest transponder time from that timeframe in the open passing "racers only" group was a 1:28 low. So..... we were certainly hauling. And my times were extremely consistent, all within a second, mostly mid 1:34's. I was gaining ground on them hard in braking zones, but gloc R16's will do that for ya. I can lean on those things forever, they just never quit. I was out braking miatas, hondas, you name it, I was out braking them. Can't even imagine what better tires will yield! I was also able to keep up with the 4.6 just fine in the straights, and the 5.0 was on 3.31 and while he did pull us, it wasn't enough to negate my braking ability. I came up their asses in the braking zones. I just couldn't hold the same corner speed. They would slowly get away from me in the corners and thus their exit speed was higher, and I obviously am not going to pull them in on the straights with raw power... Corner speed has to go up! Cup 2's are 100% in my future. I really should get a set of 18x11's and #justfuckingsendit with some NT01's or something. But, meh. So.... the reason my last session was a dud, the end of my third session resulted in boiled brake fluid, which is basically the most terrifying thing I have ever experienced. Thankfully I felt it come on, quickly stoped #sendingit and got the car into the pits, where the heat soak in the calipers totally boiled the fluid and I almost rolled into a parked truck at 5 mph as i tried to pump the brakes getting them to come back. We thought maybe this was because I was running with advance track on, 4.6 and 5.0 were not.... 5.0 said it totally fucks you up. So, we bled my fluid, what came out was black as can be. The passenger side my buddy said there was some metallic ness to it, which is concerning, but it could just be since they are remanufactured Brembo's and they have never been flushed, could just be some left over who knows what. If the piston was riding the cylinder wall, you would think the seals would be destroyed and they would be leaking. But, no leaking I can tell; I will be pulling the pads tomorrow to inspect for glazing and look for any sign of a fluid leak. After bleeding them, I went back out for the 4th session not at all trusting my car, so I was braking much earlier, not riding the throttle as hard, and I also figured I might as well take advance track off. No TC is extremely invigorating... It felt much more smooth, rotation was increased dramatically, and the car just felt more free and nimble. With that, I didn't trust me brakes, and wasn't going very hard since I have never driven with TC off. That said, the two times the rear end did break away, instead of it being awkward and hard to gather it again, without the TC doing stupid shit I wasn't ready for, I was able to throttle/counter steer it back into shape which felt amazing. But, this didn't help at all. So, the metallic fluid is still an iffy thing, but the take away here was I likely should have flushed my fluid sooner, I have been running ATE 200, this fluid is from when I put my bremobs on ~2 years ago, and 4-5 track days. I have never even bled them. This is likely why the fluid didn't hold up. So, I think I will try RBF600, although I am considering going even more aggressive and running Winmax or brembo fluid. They are a higher quality, true track fluid. Winmax is 63 a liter tho, not for the faint of heart. But, if you want to go out there and #fullsend, really shouldn't cheap out either. Also, I think brake ducts are now needed. I need to cool these suckers down! Anyways, super fun day none the less. I just am a bit shook up by losing brakes mid #fullsend at the top of 4th gear coming into a hard braking zone. That is something I really never want to experience again. Motor is still running plenty strong, I clicked over 64k today on the way to the track, Calimer trans feels fantastic, oil cooler I am sure is working, but I am lazy and have not added a temp sensor to that system yet... But I should see if MPT can reduce the throttle "hang" and try and get more engine braking, my buddy in the 4.6 drove my car, he actually had a 2015 3.7 as well on an MPT tune, and he said it hangs way long, which is certainly not helping me with shedding speed, maybe they can change that, maybe they will say #sorryourfromcaliforniacan'thelpyouanymore
  13. God this is awesome. If the ITB’s would be easy to actuate, this is totally something I would want to try. But controlling them, I have next to no idea how to set that system up. Can’t wait to see what the final result is! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Correct. It’s come w long way, performance is much improved over what it once was. But.... still. Windows is the better option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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