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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    We'll see what the GT500 brings to the table but for now I'm doing my homework on something else. A company in Texas called Frankenstein Engine Dynamics have developed a set of BIG heads for the GT350. I called them last night and inquired about the mill. They said they're sending me all the info they have about them. I'm waiting on an email. Their testing without a completely dialed in tune was putting out 525 RWHP with long tube headers, no cats, ported heads, STOCK intake and snorkel and STOCK manifold, and good 91 octane (yes, ninety ONE, not ninety three). FE claims their wheel hub dyno typically reads about 8 - 10% lower than a well calibrated Dynojet 224. Take that for what you will. So yes, a Dynojet in theory could read 585 RWHP...or 670 flywheel horsepower using accepted drivetrain loss (about 13% for the GT350). The torque curve smoothens out and doesn't have that massive jump from 3000 - 3500 RPM. It's much more progressive like the Coyote is. So actually it doesn't hit has a hard right at that meat. However what it does do is continue to carry the torque way up high and doesn't dip down like a curve but climbs until its peak around 5000 RPM and carries on. It falls off by only by a mere 30lb ft or so all the way until 8200 RPM. For curiosity's sake, when I get the info I'll show more.
  2. 1 point
    For future reference, I orderedBR3Z-7A508-B, 1C3Z-7600-AB, and new pressure plate bolts as those I believe are torqued to yield: M-6397-B46. Couldn't find the M-6397-B46 on autonation, so I got them from Lethal Performance. To bad... 15 bucks in extra shipping lol. I guess we will see in about 1.5 weeks if its all good. I did reach out to a buddy who used to work at ford, (had a little bit of a hand in the 350, but mostly worked on the new nascar program for them, is now at GM...) asking WTF the difference in those two parts is from someone who can actually pull up the real drawings of them. Hopefully he can get back to me and let me know cuz what a cluster fuck those part numbers are.
  3. 1 point
    Yes Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    I should replace the pilot bearing while they are in there right?
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Yea, it should drain down to whatever level the oil filter is (which is lower than most of the radiator). And a setrab plate and all setrab fittings. 4 90 degree’s cost 130 bucks! Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
    I've discovered dual purposing brake pads is difficult. I'd call G-LOC and see if they have any ideas. I used to run Carbotech but the big boys of the company all went to G-LOC.
  8. 1 point
    Yeah, should really call her a colleague since she was paid for this shoot and is engaged to be married.
  9. 1 point
    That’s dope AF! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 1 point
    For reference, this is what I got from HAWK: Our Street Race compound represented with an ( R ) would fit well in the setup match with your current skill level. Especially with street tires you would want to be cautious with running anything with Higher torque than these pads. You could leave the HPS 5.0 on the rear, though not recommended for track use. With them being a rear pad and having more bite up front you should not have to worry about them getting overheated. Now generally speaking you would not have to clean rotors, though it is highly recommended that you scuff the surface up with 100 grit sand paper when swapping pads in order to achieve optimal performance. Let me know if you have any questions on this matter.
  11. 1 point
    You should hang out with LIGISTX!
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