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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Re-fabricating my transmission crossmember...very time consuming for a single piece...probably because I was under the car working by feel half the time and it went in and out about 20 times for revisions(cant jack the car up when fabbing a trans crossmember since you have to reference the pinion and trans flange angles as the car sits under normal circumstances) one of those tasks you really want a lift for whenever possible. Not the most pleasing visually, but shape is dictated by the longtube header collectors on the outside and the MT82 trans on the inside....do still have to finish the tail section where the mount bolts to, but that is the easy part.
  2. 3 points
    Front sump pan test fit...there will still need to be some work done here obviously, but for a pan I picked up for $100 from someone's halted swap in an import its surprisingly close to what I need.
  3. 3 points
    In other news, I lucked out here...someone was going to swap a 3.7l into some import and had a front-sump pan made for the swap...however he lost interest in the swap and sold the engine to a mustang guy who had no use for the pan...so I picked it up for $140...saves me a huge headache of fabricating one from scratch.
  4. 3 points
  5. 2 points
    Welded up the new crossmember today...jacking pad included, DOM tubing so its capable of being used to jack up the entire front end(though I doubt I will utilize that all too often) also plumbed up the vacuum tank(used to be a catch can) for the ITBs...the only ITB task left at this point is the airbox...and I am still struggling with exactly how I want to do this
  6. 2 points
    That is a bummer. Maybe they are hinting that you need some NO2 on that thing.
  7. 2 points
    MPT PRX tune is in, definitely more engine braking after jumping off the pedal up top. Its still a drive by wire, they can only do so much, but it is improved which is nice. All the amazing backfires, are gone. I assume this is because the aggressive engine braking? No fuel being added and cam timing being adjusted? I am not sure, I asked, and because I am 12 at heart, I asked if it would be possible to tune them back in bellow 3500 RPM so when I am around town I can be a turd. Motor feels strong, what is most notable is it feels less peaky and more fluid and smooth. Who knows, it may make less torque overall, only a dyno would really be able to tell me im sure, but it is more fluid and uniform. Best way I can describe it, I always said my fathers 997.1 Carrera 4s felt like it had smooth power delivery, this feels more akin to that. Its no Porsche motor, but it is leaning more towards that direction than previously. It feels a little less pissed off up top based on the sound, but thats hard to know, and I can imagine it needs some learning. I saw 0 max knock and -6 min. I sent the log to MPT, we will see what they come back with.
  8. 2 points
    Since death sounds pretty shitty... 6 bottles of RBF600 are on their way, Vorshalg brake cooling ducts, power bleeder for both S197 and S550 and new high temp dust boots from opmustang, along with new bg trans fluid from OP as well, and I will be doing a diff flush as while I am at it.
  9. 1 point
    Circling back around to the final ITB task...airbox design, not finalized...but... I have decided on this orientation for the airhorns...pointed backward(or forward) it will take a bit of customization, but I have determined it will work. Which necessitates an airbox in this general shape and size...huge I know, but maybe I can hide the size if I make it out of polycarbonate or plexiglass(and use a heat gun to neatly curve it.) Or maybe I can make it into some type of psuedo engine cover on a glace
  10. 1 point
    Ah well, all finished now: (ignore the scrap metal I have jammed under the mount as a shim, just seeing where my driveline angle was) I moved on to the oil filter housing...it wont fit with the motor mount bracket and alternator being where they are now, so I cut it down to the flange, tapping it for 1/2" NPT fittings...will be using a remote oil filter relocation kit instead(because nothing can be easy)
  11. 1 point
    Sounds pretty evil....I noticed several project cars back that cars always sound much more "snarly" without a cat but much more refined with one....its actually one of the reasons I always put cats in my builds now, I like less snarl and more refinement.
  12. 1 point
    Actual CF stacks would be difficult without a purpose-made plug(though I guess technically these stacks are 20% CF already) but dual CF airboxes would certainly be a possibility with that method...but I have never worked CF before...it seems like it would be a huge PITA version of fiberglass...not much worse though if I consider its only the final couple layers that matter cosmetically....an enclosed box you wouldn't have to worry about the cosmetics inside...and to seal the whole thing you could layer CF over the elbow portion of the stacks...the whole thing could theoretically even hold boost pressures then.
  13. 1 point
    I like Ross Machining, but they are geared toward actual intake manifold fabrication...sadly they dont offer stacks with a complete bellmouth in 2" inside diameter(would have to be a custom order). As for 3d printers...I too have a buddy with one...but he says his particular model wont get hot enough to use nylon, and the other plastic options aren't ideal for this type of thing. I did think of one possible solution though: If you notice the flange where the inner and outer portions of the horn are welded together(speaking of which, the horns are made out of CF20....which is carbon fiber reinforced nylon). Anyway, the flange represents the possibility to make a two piece wall that is able to clamp around that flange(very much like a v-band exhaust clamp...for that matter a v-band could possibly fit)...once you have a wall clamped around that flange, you can build out an airbox from that that will enclose just the 2nd half of the horns. What I really need to do is figure out a way to lay fiberglass is such a way as to catch that flange...it will have to be thick enough to be able to clamp down around it and possibly include an o-ring for sealing...oh how I hate working with fiberglass...but for this I have a feeling it will be critical. P.S. I just thought of another way to do this instead of fiberglass...its actually a variation on the way I created the bell-crank. The bell-crank for the ITBs looks like 1 piece of aluminum...but its not. It needed to be a throttle drum as well as a bell crank so what I did was take 3 1/8" pieces of aluminum and sandwich them together with the middle piece being smaller than the 2 outer pieces...creating a channel for the cable to ride in without having to have a lathe, then I used the throttle balls as a way to screw the 3 plates together(I actually threaded them in directly without even having to use a tap). So...I can build a 2-piece back wall with this same method that sandwiches the flange between them...this allows me to use whatever material I chose(PVC sheet, nylon, plexiglass, fiberglass sheet, aluminum, delrin etc) all without the mess of laying fiberglass. Something of this nature...I should even be able to had-fab it with a couple of hole saws and a cut off wheel:
  14. 1 point
    So I found a link explaining how to make your own bellmouths out of PVC: https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-25mm.htm This is appealing for several reasons...first off, PVC tubing is measured by inside diameter rather than outside diameter like a lot of tubing...and a 50mm throttle plate like I have is an oddball size when trying to find velocity stacks that actually fit...second...PVC is easily workable and you can find sizes like 50mm(2") in many different bends as well as flat sheets...PVC is also easily bonded with PVC glue. In addition to all that, its also a very smooth plastic requiring little to no finish polishing for best airflow. The downside is that it has a maximum recommended temp of 140 degrees....a touch on the low side for underhood temps....however it has been successfully used many times to make intake manifolds and the flexibility in velocity stack design is appealing. I will run with the M5 air horns for now, but I am certainly going to play with PVC for an air-box capable setup. Or...as a more extreme idea: https://www.acmeplastics.com/acrylic-tubes/acrylic-cast-clear-tube I could make clear velocity stacks using the same methods using either acrylic or polycarbonate....that might be amusing to do.
  15. 1 point
    Dont get me wrong though....I want an airbox that is easily removed just for vanity reasons...maybe a temporary airbox just for tuning and daily driving purposes, but that can be removed for going to shows and the like? Using Megasquirt 3 so I wont actually have any need for the MAF once the tune is locked in solidly.
  16. 1 point
    The airbox is a practical concern for 2 reasons: 1: Filtering...using individual filters always results in significant power loss on ITB setups. 2. Tuning....if I make an airbox(s) and connect it to a single air inlet pipe that means I can run a MAF sensor and tuning becomes a breeze...without a MAF, it will be quite the challenge with both Ti-VCT and ITBs...as it is, I am going to have a grand ol time getting a clean MAP signal from this setup. I have a feeling I am going to have to blatantly copy BMWs dual vacuum manifold setup(problematic since these ITBs dont have needle valves...might have to use an actual BMW idle valve just to get it working right,
  17. 1 point
    You could make two air boxes, one for each side. Or, run it without! Lol. Looks so amazing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    M5 air horns...need to decide which way to clock them....thinking toward the inside(gives me much better shock tower brace clearance). These 2 are the oddball test horns...the other 6 turn downward at the 2nd part of the bend. Also finished my longtube equal length headers yesterday....very soon now I can pull the engine to finish up metalwork and prep and paint the car...then it can finally start going back together. How exactly am I supposed to make an airbox for this?
  19. 1 point
    Thank's for the heads up on OPMUSTANGS.com as to the trans fluid, I am flushing & replacing filter this year. I already did the BG fluid change 75w140w for my rear diff. Happy New Year!
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for update, I know the feeling of the ass end going and power sliding thru turns as I too enjoy it. Just not an accident from oversteering the pony. I am still building my Coyote Gen 2 for track duty at 67,500 miles. Motul brake fluid may be just fine. I now wish i had gotten 11" rims as I want to run 305's and am scared to put them on a 10" wheel. Enjoy the New Year!
  21. 1 point
    Also did a lot more work setting up the ITBs, finished porting the transition in the adapter plates, re-drilled and re-mounted the actuator arms, shortened by Weber carb linkages and test fit the bell-crank to verify operation...fun stuff
  22. 1 point
    Well, another successful track day, mostly. I am certainly getting a lot faster, we ran streets of willow CCW today, which was way weird seeing as I am used to CW. Three mustangs dominated the intermediate group, we left everyone else literally in our brake dust. It was fantastic. A dude my friend Brent met last track day in a 5.0, 305/315 Cup 2's, suspension (im not sure what kind), nothing super crazy but good track experience was first with a low 1:30, buddy in a 4.6 with 295/325 Nitto Invo's, a very nice tune, not much else ran second with high 1:30, and this was his second track day!!!! He is a fucking god. Then me, with my very inadequate MPSS's in 275 ran a 1:33 high. They got their 1:30's on the last session of the day, track was warmed up a bit, when we got there it was 17 degrees, F, not C... Tires were not happy. Last session I didn't go very fast for reasons I will explain in a sec. The time I did 1:33 high they did 1:32 high's. And the fastest transponder time from that timeframe in the open passing "racers only" group was a 1:28 low. So..... we were certainly hauling. And my times were extremely consistent, all within a second, mostly mid 1:34's. I was gaining ground on them hard in braking zones, but gloc R16's will do that for ya. I can lean on those things forever, they just never quit. I was out braking miatas, hondas, you name it, I was out braking them. Can't even imagine what better tires will yield! I was also able to keep up with the 4.6 just fine in the straights, and the 5.0 was on 3.31 and while he did pull us, it wasn't enough to negate my braking ability. I came up their asses in the braking zones. I just couldn't hold the same corner speed. They would slowly get away from me in the corners and thus their exit speed was higher, and I obviously am not going to pull them in on the straights with raw power... Corner speed has to go up! Cup 2's are 100% in my future. I really should get a set of 18x11's and #justfuckingsendit with some NT01's or something. But, meh. So.... the reason my last session was a dud, the end of my third session resulted in boiled brake fluid, which is basically the most terrifying thing I have ever experienced. Thankfully I felt it come on, quickly stoped #sendingit and got the car into the pits, where the heat soak in the calipers totally boiled the fluid and I almost rolled into a parked truck at 5 mph as i tried to pump the brakes getting them to come back. We thought maybe this was because I was running with advance track on, 4.6 and 5.0 were not.... 5.0 said it totally fucks you up. So, we bled my fluid, what came out was black as can be. The passenger side my buddy said there was some metallic ness to it, which is concerning, but it could just be since they are remanufactured Brembo's and they have never been flushed, could just be some left over who knows what. If the piston was riding the cylinder wall, you would think the seals would be destroyed and they would be leaking. But, no leaking I can tell; I will be pulling the pads tomorrow to inspect for glazing and look for any sign of a fluid leak. After bleeding them, I went back out for the 4th session not at all trusting my car, so I was braking much earlier, not riding the throttle as hard, and I also figured I might as well take advance track off. No TC is extremely invigorating... It felt much more smooth, rotation was increased dramatically, and the car just felt more free and nimble. With that, I didn't trust me brakes, and wasn't going very hard since I have never driven with TC off. That said, the two times the rear end did break away, instead of it being awkward and hard to gather it again, without the TC doing stupid shit I wasn't ready for, I was able to throttle/counter steer it back into shape which felt amazing. But, this didn't help at all. So, the metallic fluid is still an iffy thing, but the take away here was I likely should have flushed my fluid sooner, I have been running ATE 200, this fluid is from when I put my bremobs on ~2 years ago, and 4-5 track days. I have never even bled them. This is likely why the fluid didn't hold up. So, I think I will try RBF600, although I am considering going even more aggressive and running Winmax or brembo fluid. They are a higher quality, true track fluid. Winmax is 63 a liter tho, not for the faint of heart. But, if you want to go out there and #fullsend, really shouldn't cheap out either. Also, I think brake ducts are now needed. I need to cool these suckers down! Anyways, super fun day none the less. I just am a bit shook up by losing brakes mid #fullsend at the top of 4th gear coming into a hard braking zone. That is something I really never want to experience again. Motor is still running plenty strong, I clicked over 64k today on the way to the track, Calimer trans feels fantastic, oil cooler I am sure is working, but I am lazy and have not added a temp sensor to that system yet... But I should see if MPT can reduce the throttle "hang" and try and get more engine braking, my buddy in the 4.6 drove my car, he actually had a 2015 3.7 as well on an MPT tune, and he said it hangs way long, which is certainly not helping me with shedding speed, maybe they can change that, maybe they will say #sorryourfromcaliforniacan'thelpyouanymore
  23. 1 point
    Went back to work on the ITB setup today: I cut the water pipe out of the stock manifold. There are actually a couple solutions to the water pipe issue...but I wanted to see if I could manage to re-use a portion of the stock manifold. I also cut the back end of the driver side ITB adapter plate...I knew I was going to have to cut the mounting hole down the middle(it was cheaper when I was getting the plates made to make one design that could be used on either side with a little bit of trimming than pay the setup cost all over again to make plates that were for a specific side) Presumably with some half washers I should be able to make one bolt hold down both the back of the adapter plate and the front of the water neck....the other side is going to be more of a challenge, but I will use some type of spacer and hold down to accomplish the same thing(this is what happens when only use part of a manifold, mounting holes dont exist where you really need them) And here I am transitioning the port shape from the BMW shape to the Ford shape....they are the same length and width, its just the actual shape of the oval that is different, leaving a little material needing to be removed in the corners.
  24. 1 point
    Adapter plates are in! Merry Christmas to me I guess: This is a top and bottom comparison shot...the bottom shot shows exactly how much hand porting I will have to do to transition from the BMW port shape to the Ford port shape....not very much. I am actually very pleased with how close everything came out considering I made the drawing off of just digital caliper measurements. I have yet to bolt them up to the heads, but based on the test-fit to my spare Ecoboost v6 intake manifold I am fairly confident its dead-on there.
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