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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    FX2_3129-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3141 by David, on Flickr FX2_3144-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3150-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3219-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3225-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3235 by David, on Flickr FX2_3245 by David, on Flickr FX2_3247 by David, on Flickr FX2_3251 by David, on Flickr FX2_3279 by David, on Flickr FX2_3292 by David, on Flickr FX2_3310-HDR by David, on Flickr FX2_3327 by David, on Flickr FX2_3330 by David, on Flickr FX2_3332-HDR by David, on Flickr
  2. 2 points
    Well... From my blasting around with my immense HP in the Starbucks parking lot, and Zeiger Elementary lot where I work, I can say that I like the thicker bar (have fun with that one). It fells great, and ahhh... the sound of silence. 1hr install, and I only put a bit of sticky silicon on the aluminum nut that connects the tops of the links to the car frame. I couldn't get the sway bar to budge or make a sound hitting it from underneath the car, but man when it was lying in the driveway those end links flopped and clunked around so easy. I knew before I drove it that I fixed a big problem. Thanks for all the input fellas!
  3. 2 points
    The only mod so far is to put the MRT hood struts on it. I decided to do a superstripe on it, like I had on my black convertible - this one will be anthracite gray to tie in the wheels. I need to get some drag radials for it; my old set of Race Star Dark Stars won't fit because the offset is different (so a nice set of 15x8 wheels with Mickey Thompsons on them and 17x4.5 front skinnies will be going up for sale). Need to upgrade the inter-cooler. The IAT's were running 15 - 20 degrees over ambient at the track this weekend. I will replace the exhaust from the cats back. Since North Carolina has inspection, Scott at MRT checked out what they look at and said that I need to keep the stock cats to pass.
  4. 1 point
    If you're going through the effort, I'd go to 18's since they should be lighter.
  5. 1 point
    If you want to track it, run the same tires all around. 285 is a good size, more is better, but 285 is totally acceptable. a 285/40R18 all the way around would be perfect, lets you rotate front to back, the fronts will see more edge wear then the rears so this will help increase tire life. I am trying to get a little more than 285, but honestly 285 is enough.... Just need a good tire. Compound is extremely important, and I have been amazed by my pilot super sports, but ultimately I want more grip on track. For what they are they have blown me away, they ride quiet, have a lot of grip and have help up well to miles both on and off track. But.... I think something more track specific is in my future.
  6. 1 point
    Now thinking of it, I should sell my front GT350 bar...if I can find the mounts.
  7. 1 point
    A slightly stiffer rear bar on the V6 is definitely a good thing and if you're just looking to also get rid of the clunk, fo sho go for it. GT's on the other hand...it still pisses me off to no end when the big boys are upgrading their sway bars and saying how much more planted and controlled the car feels coming out of a Starbucks' parking lot. Coyote, GT500, and GT350 cars need a front sway bar, not a rear. At least for what most people are trying to accomplish with handling balance.
  8. 1 point
    I have strong feelings on this too, reuse as many studs as possible. Less work getting all the studs out, nuts are easier to install, and you definitely don't have to worry about a bolt backing out if you're reusing the studs. Cranking bolts into heads at those types of angles is scary. I almost screwed up my 2011 Mustang GT's heads because of this. And remember to use anti seize if the bolts aren't zinc coated. I believe most header bolts are nowadays but best to double check.
  9. 1 point
    I picked it up 2 weeks ago, but waited to reveal it because of an event this past weekend. Traded my SHO on a 2017 EcoBoost convertible, certified pre-owned. Originally I was going to get a 2018 coupe in royal crimson with the performance package. But after we spent a couple of weeks going back and forth on the deal Scenic Motors in Mt. Airy decided to play games when I called to let them know I was on the way to pick it up - the sales guy said "great, see you in a bit, and just a heads up, but the sales manager redid the numbers this morning" and suddenly the deal was getting more expensive. I told him "I'm not playing this game" and he claimed it wasn't a game, they just missed some things on the fax they had sent me just the day before. Told him to fix it and he said to give him a few minutes. He called back and it still wasn't the same deal so I walked away. Not playing that game where they think that I have already completed the deal in my head and bought the car so now they can screw with me. My wife said "let's go to another dealer" and just after she said it Asheboro Ford texted me to ask if I was still interested. And 45 minutes later we were on the lot looking at cars. They had a GT that I told my wife I could "settle" for even though it didn't have all the options I wanted. We walked inside to go over the numbers and inside the showroom was this white convertible. My wife said "you need another convertible". Didn't have all the options I wanted (like performance package and navigation) but it went home with us. Guess I have to post pictures later. I thought that they were on this computer but apparently I never downloaded them on this one.
  10. 1 point
    As mentioned above, a little lube should ease assembly. This is not entirely accurate. It isn't a matter of 'good' or 'better', but a matter of tuning the car towards a specific balance. A stiffer rear bar increases oversteer but it also helps rotate the car mid corner as a means of fighting understeer. For a high-HP car this might not be desirable as the engine's torque can do the same thing leading to excessive oversteer. For a less powerful V6 having a bit more rotation may help and will definitely make the car feel more lively.
  11. 1 point
    Rasp comes from the mufflers, not the type of crossover.
  12. 1 point
    FX1_3656 by David, on Flickr FX1_3728 by David, on Flickr FX1_3734 by David, on Flickr FX1_3738 by David, on Flickr FX1_3781 by David, on Flickr FX1_3818 by David, on Flickr FX1_3817 by David, on Flickr FX1_3870 by David, on Flickr FX1_3894 by David, on Flickr
  13. 1 point
    FX1_3382 by David, on Flickr FX1_3464 by David, on Flickr FX1_3492 by David, on Flickr FX1_3495 by David, on Flickr FX1_3497 by David, on Flickr FX1_3501 by David, on Flickr FX1_3516 by David, on Flickr FX1_3521 by David, on Flickr FX1_3556 by David, on Flickr FX1_3599 by David, on Flickr FX1_3614 by David, on Flickr
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I suggest reusing as many of the stock studs as possible then using the supplied bolts for the remainder. IIRC on one side you can reuse all of the studs and the other only requires one or two of the new bolts.
  16. 1 point
    Yup, I noticed that, you can tell its the full brace because it actually bolts to the passenger side strut tower, where the fake plastic one does not have a passenger side mount. Maybe they felt the 2.3L was so much lighter than the 3.7/5.0 that it had enough bracing with the Kbrace. I however even in my coupe bought a strut brace and it made a huge difference on turn in.
  17. 1 point
    I did stiffer springs, adjustable toe links and new vertical links and it helped keeping my tires planted. I was thinking about doing the cradle lockout (three point brace on the diff) but I am not sure if that is something you can use on the vert as it already has some rear bracing in place. I am surprised it did not have the strut tower brace?? Very nice I am still missing my Vert. Grats on the new ride.
  18. 1 point
    Damn didn't waste any time getting some enjoyment out of your new car! Congrats Jim!!
  19. 1 point
    Let the fun begin (again)!
  20. 1 point
    Well I broke in my new oil cooler yesterday at Thompson speedway. On average it kept my oil temp down 22 degrees from last years readings, we will see when it gets a lot hotter on the track but really happy so far.
  21. 1 point
    It ties in the back half of the kmember just behind the control arms. The steeda Gtrack K brace does the same thing but then it branches off two additional diagonal braces that also ties the center of the forward part of the kmember, if you look at the pic and see where the closest end of my brace bolts there, then follow that down the pic there the next largest hole is at the bottom where the Kmember starts, the gtrack k brace bolts down at the little hole there on both sides. I opted for the single brace because I already have the strut tower brace and a kbrace on the firewall from the 20" wheel package so I think its a little overkill.
  22. 1 point
    Been a while since i last posted and long story short, after i wrecked my 2012 GT I wound up getting a 2013 Boss. While I did like the boss and it was a beautiful car and pretty quick for the few mods I had on it, the faults of the S197 were still engraved in it's soul. Mainly the trans issues of lockout and shitty stock clutch and I really didn't feel like starting over there, chased all those demons on my 12 and wound up being all for nought. Honestly wtf was Ford thinking when they put that shitty setup in their dedicated track machine, and after many drugs i decided to get rid of it for a 2016 Tacoma. Fast forward to after drug rehab, I came to my senses and hated the daily commute in the truck, was just too damn slow for me and ate gas like a f250 so I figured might as well get another mustang and the 18 came out at the perfect time for me to unload the truck. Bought this a few weeks ago it's a Base model Performance Pack M6. The auto is great and test drove a few A10s and manuals and actually got a ecoturd A10 as a loaner for a couple days and all I could do is Yawwwwwwwwwn. The A10 is amazing but not much of a thrill to drive daily. Some people like it and I'm not one of them, I like rowing gears, much more satisfying and I'm not trying to be the fastest there will always be someone faster so I went for the manual. Also got rid of my A6 15 the wife was driving if I wanted a max optioned auto I would have kept hers. Any how here's the new one I have a BDX, JLT CAI and already installed the resonator delete just waiting on AED to offer flex fuel tuning for it, should happen in a month or two can't wait.
  23. 1 point
    Glad to see you back. Very nice upgrade. I finally stopped at my dealer yesterday and looked at a 2018 Kona Blue GT. I shouldn't have done that the force is getting very strong now.
  24. 1 point
    Very nice 304 stainless, quality bends, they even cleaned up the pipes inside to make assembly smoother. But the 4" tips are not wanting to stay centered >.< (yes they have been tacked welded in place) Seems as the pipes go through heat cycles they tend to flex a bit. Cold they look fairly well centered but after heating up both sides seem tweaked a little inward, not near touching or anything just not centered. Sound wise they really vary dramatically throughout the RPM range also depending on load of course... Level cruising at around 2100 RPM they are pretty much silent inside the cabin. When you get on it hard it does get loud and feels like it freed up some power, being mostly straight pipe. As long as my neighbor doesn't come out with a shotgun when I fire it up at 6:00 AM or I get a noise ticket I am still very pleased. Note to anyone thinking about the Stainless Works retro chambered set up the "mufflers" are actually reversible if you want to turn them around they are more aggressive. Just make sure both mufflers are mounted with the inner flutes facing in the same direction so you don't create a potential imbalance in back pressure between banks.
  25. 1 point
    Yeah I got lucky this year I am at over 500hrs OT so far since Oct. so I put down $15,000 deposit. Its been a pain in the ass but once my car comes in it will be well worth it. =) .... and thank you I am happy for me too hehe.
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