Since I have now done this 3 times I will post my easy instructions for those of you who find yourself looking doing this down the road....
Removing or swapping stock EBM turbo.
SCOPE: This is just a simple write up on removing or installing or swapping a stock turbo on the EB Mustang. No pics just the grits of it. =) This post assumes you know how to remove your exhaust system, and that you know how to source a boost source off your motor if needed. You can google this. This guide I would say is an intermediate level task, but really anyone should be able to do this, its pretty strait forward.
Note: Let the car cool down and settle for like say 25/30 minutes before you start it will help with cooling off the pipes and draining fluids. Also you should not need to remove the belly pan at all, I did not.
Steps are in order:
1. Get your car on stands or if your lucky a lift.
2. Take off your engine cover (2 8mm and 2 10mm nuts) and battery cover, and remove negative battery terminal (on 16 and later its a 10mm nut).
3. Remove the clamp on the recirculating tube on the intake tube and the PCV/EGR hose. Unbolt the one 10mm bolt holding the air box in, and unplug and remove from the side of the air box the AIT sensor and put it aside. Loosen the clamp on the turbo inlet using a 7 or 8mm socket and remove the air intake tube and air box.
4. Loosen the two clamps at each end of the cold side charge pipe going from the IC to the Throttle body with a 7 or 8mm socket. Remove pipe.
5. Remove small hose on the back of the Coolant reservoir and plug it with a bolt or similar object and tuck it under the wire loom running across the front of the engine. (I used duct tape) tape the nipple the hose came off of. Unbolt the two 10mm bolts off the reservior and lift it (Has plenty of hose) and lay it over by the throttle body side. ( I used a large Zip tie and held it on the radiator support on that side.
6. Unplug the wire harness off the stock EBC, and the stock Diverter valve if you have it.
7. Loosen the lower and upper clamps on the hot side charge pipe off the IC and Turbo compressor outlet. Remove the pipe.
8. Remove the 3 vacuum hoses off the Turbo (Waste Gate, boost reference, and boost recirculating), then unbolt the 2 10mm nuts holding the EBC to the engine block and remove it. (just gets it out of the way and lessens clutter in the work space.
9. Unplug the top O2 Sensor from its harness. (Note: if you are just removing the turbo only you do not need to do the exhaust steps (skip steps 9-11) other than removing the two nuts off the down pipe to turbine housing, it is not necessary to remove the DP or any exhaust to just remove the Turbo only, these instructions are more for if you are replacing the stock unit completely including DP etc.)
10. Go under the car and unbolt your exhaust hangers in the rear at the IRS, and loosen the band clamp holding the exhaust to the down pipe and remove the exhaust. (13mm nuts for the hangers, 15mm for the band clamp.)
11. Unplug the rear O2 sensor (You may need to unclip it from the transmission first)., go back up top and remove the two 15mm nuts from the down pipe flange to the turbo turbine housing. Then go back under the car and remove the two 13MM nuts holding the down pipe to the trans bracket, and slowly remove the down pipe, be aware the donut gasket may or may not just fall out, so keep and eye on it. Usually it sticks in the hole and you can just grab it.
12. Right now all the is left is basically the Turbo head unit. From under the car, get a bucket that can hold about 8 cups of fluid or greater and put it just under the lower coolant line (coolant drain line) connection, it is the one with banjo bolt at the rear of the engine, not the hose clamp one just above it. Loosen the banjo nut, it should be like a 30mm or larger hex key. Let it drain out into the bucket till its stops.
13. From up top remove the Banjo Bolt to the oil feed line, should be a 17 or 19mm nut. It should not really drain at all, maybe like a few drops.
14. After it stops draining radiator coolant go back under and remove the hose clamp and the coolant feed hose and the remaining connection to the coolant drain line.
15. We have one line left to remove that is the oil drain line, but before to make the rest of the removal easier take a small block of wood, or similar item about 2" thick and place it under the front corner of the oil pan and cross member to support the motor while we move the engine mount out of the way, this is required to remove or install the Turbo. The motor mount has 4 13mm bolts holding it to the engine, loosen and remove them. The very top front bolt is accessible from the top, and the remaining 3 bolts from under the car. Now just loosen the very top nut on the mount (Not the counter balance sitting on top but the 3/4" nut) unless you want to completely remove the mount which us up to you, you can just loosen it, the bolt hole is elongated for moving the mount around and just turn the mount counter clockwise facing the rear of the car. Note: if you remove the motor mount completely (Your preference) be aware if you install the stock turbo or an aftermarket that mounts upside down like stock you must leave the turbo unbolted, then lift up on the turbo towards you to slip the motor mount over the main top bolt. Also you can remove the anti vibration counterweight off the motor mount too to make moving it around easier.
16. Using a 10mm socket remove the two nuts holding the oil return line to the engine block, be aware it uses a small black o-ring for its seal, it could fall out of the hose. Just turn the hose facing upward so it is out of the way.
17. Remove the 4 13mm nuts holding the turbocharger to the engines head (You do not need to remove the heat sheild) and remove the turbo then the manifold gasket.
18. Remember after you are finished doing whatever it is you are doing setup wise to pour back into the coolant reservoir the radiator coolant you drained to top it off. (However if the bucket was really dirty or there was alot of dirt off the engine block just get clean coolant and top off the reservoir.
Re installation is in reverse order be it the stock unit or an aftermarket setup. The only difference with an aftermarket setup will most likely just be if your using an external waste gate then you will need to get a length of vacuum hose that reaches the middle port on the EBC (orange/yellow nipple), and a aftermarket mechanical BOV you will need to source a boost reference off the intake (Tee off a intake vacuum hose, usually off the line on top of the throttle body.) You would then vent the top port on the EBC to atmosphere and run the bottom port on the EBC to the boost reference port on the compressor housing. Other than that and flashing your tune, or data log for a new tune etc..