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#781 Bananana

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Posted January 22, 2017 - 12:59 AM

Installed my braided brake line (boost signal) for my waste gate today

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Then found my wastegate inlet flange had a very loose vband (could losen it with my fingers)

Explains some of the inconsistent boost when hot or cold. Was due to some cast material on the aluminum clamp not allowing the nut to seat fully against the clamp, terrible time getting a socket on it.

Ended up using a bunch of washers to keep the nut out so it could be torqued to 10ft-lbs.

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#782 Bananana

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Posted January 29, 2017 - 09:36 PM

Swapped out my throttle body to clean up the original stock one I had on there. Was getting some WOT issue on methanol, which I was only running to test it. Keep it running properly that is instead of leaving it off till spring but was getting some fail safe issues kicking in and not sure why it was doing so. Working with Tune+ because it should not be kicking it out when no faults are present, it may just have been wrong temp to run it.... Right now with the TB I took off I could not run it every time I was getting errors. I suspect I may need to use a smaller jet maybe the 500cc instead of the 1000cc to get the spray volume lower.

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#783 popeye

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 03:49 AM

That stuff.makes mess, I assume it's all over the manifold as well

2012 V6 6M - MPT tune - Cold Air Intake - GT throttle body 80 mm - Mac Shorties - Stock cats/no resonators - 2 3/4" exhaust after cats - GT Mufflers
Aluminum DS - 3.73 gears - Konis yellows - Steeda Sport springs - 255/45-18 Toyo Sports


#784 Bananana

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Posted February 1, 2017 - 12:42 PM

yeah not sure why they use any additives or dyes, you know if its leaking. Im ordering a few pails of M1 and will just get some water at CVS they sell it by the gal there.

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#785 Grimace427

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Posted February 2, 2017 - 10:12 PM

Could the dyes be for branding? Seems pointless but if you advertise your kits with a photo then having a different color fluid tank might help you stand out?


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-2011 5.0 Black/Saddle, MT-82, 3.73, Brembo

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#786 Bananana

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Posted February 2, 2017 - 10:45 PM

Well I suppose that running it sub 60 degrees may not agree with the 49% water side and dye being used as it cannot evap as the charge air is too cold.  However for a company that makes Meth kits they should know not to use additives (dyes etc.) in something that jets into your engine, not if it does what this does to my TB.  On the plus side I have two throttle bodies so it was not a big deal to swap it out while I clean this one.  

 

I am still ordering M1 and will be pre-mixing my own 70/30 mix going forward.


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#787 Bananana

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Posted February 10, 2017 - 07:53 PM

According to Snow Performance the dye consists of less than 1% content as an additive, it is there to do exactly what it did in my TB and that is to show spray and splatter patterns to identify pattern and atomization inconsistencies with the nozzle/Jet and intake.  

 

After fussing with the setup running a 500CC nozzle I found that it appeared that I had the upper progression knob turned all the way down to 5PSI (min/max knobs are set to spray at 10PSI and progressively increase to full volume at the max setting. On my car 25PSI).  This could have been when I was testing for why it was not spraying or when I jammed the controller under the dash the knob could have rotated.  Either way when you set the max knob lower than the min knob it means at 10PSI spray at its fullest ability no progression.  This would account for the issues with the TB.  I will put the 1000CC jet back in as the tune really needs the volume to run appropriately.

 

I was also told that running it year round is not an issue as long as the methanol content is high enough to combat freezing obviously that makes sense. They said the 51/49 mix was fine.  Its higher meth content than deicing winter washer fluid so which hovers around 34 to 40% methanol.

 

On to the next order of business.  I have ordered a set of SR performance coilovers so I hope to pop those in next month.....  Price is too good for the set.


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#788 J.R. Bob Dobbs

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Posted February 12, 2017 - 01:32 PM

Glad to hear you've found an issue and are getting it sorted. Always good to find a problem so it can be fixed with certainty.
2012 V6, Black/Saddle, Pony Pkg, MT82, 3.73 gears, SR strut brace, Eibach dampers, Steeda CAI, Steeda 93 tune, Corsa Sport axleback

#789 Bananana

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 09:09 PM

Flow fixed but I have a lingering issue right now that I think is related to a week connection for the controller, randomly the controller will lose power and then regain power only under use.  The way the fail safe is setup the green fail safe wire from the controller is a constant ground.  It is held in a closed state on the controller while the controller has a 12V+ constant, and earth connection.  Then there is an arming switch that merely turns the controller on an off but it always has constant power.  When the fail safe kicks in it breaks the ground connection on the green fail safe wire, which is what breaks continuity on my relay that switches poles from a closed connection (throttle wire) to an open connection, which is a yellow wire that goes nowhere.

 

So if I unplug the power or ground to the controller (red or black wire) it will break the fail safe ground and kick out my throttle.  Then when I reconnect either ground or power the controller will blink twice then stay solid on its led.  It is doing this only under pump duty.  That is when the car reaches 10PSI or greater as its random.  I should be able to reproduce this by unplugging the controller while the car is running too.  I got to get this pinned down because I cannot keep having random throttle disconnects like this when everything is running as it should, makes the kit pointless.  I am going to revisit my ground connections I have a sneaking suspicion its the root of all evil =)

 

My thought process is when power demand increases to run the pump the controller wiggs out which leads me to believe the + or - source is not solid, or the controller is faulty.  I lean towards the ground wire location so I am going to run it into the engine bay strait to the battery.  Cut out the middle man, or to an existing ground location used by the system.  I do not thing the nut on the clutch pedal was a solid enough one for duty.  I did not wire brush it exposing either because "under dashboard work sucks".

 

I also am selling my kit at this point and going back to stock, getting ready for twin scoll solutions coming out this spring so I may pull the methanol or not have not decided yet. 


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#790 Bananana

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Posted March 2, 2017 - 07:36 PM

Turbo kit is sold, will be going back to stock this weekend.  Will run a cobb or Tune+ tune on the stock setup till Turbonetics releases their dual bb twinscroll drop in unit.  It is a direct factory replacement with about 550-600HP capable output, but with low rpm spool and high torque of a twin scroll unit and stock like behaviors.  

 

I have been getting decent numbers and power out of the current kit but I want the drivability of the stock unit with the power of my current, this one from Turbonetics should fit that bill, and it fits under in the stock location, so it can be used with all the stock appearance (unless you look at the turbine housing that is =) )  


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#791 popeye

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Posted March 3, 2017 - 01:45 PM

Wow, all that work out the window. You certainly had your share of headaches with that kit. I hope the new one is a more seamless install and tuning cycle.

2012 V6 6M - MPT tune - Cold Air Intake - GT throttle body 80 mm - Mac Shorties - Stock cats/no resonators - 2 3/4" exhaust after cats - GT Mufflers
Aluminum DS - 3.73 gears - Konis yellows - Steeda Sport springs - 255/45-18 Toyo Sports


#792 JimC

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Posted March 3, 2017 - 02:07 PM

I understand the decision. Had to decide on my 2013 it was time to quit.

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#793 Bananana

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Posted March 3, 2017 - 06:30 PM

I could have kept it, its buttoned up and running as it should.  The turbo tuning is part of life of running an aftermarket system.  Add to that random gremlins are common with all builds, we had a few minor issues that kept the process from being smooth.

  • MAP tune initially was garbage and the car ran ok but was not very good WOT, Tune+ tune fixed that but we had inconsistency issues associated with minor boost leaks, and a hidden leak we only just found.  That being said every time you fix one leak, your tune changes, and you have to retune.  I am on tune version 26.  That is 26 revisions since last spring.  So roughly 2 a month. We had temp changes, exhaust changes, methanol added, etc.  So every variance requires updating the tune file.  That is the nature of it.
  • First blov failed month 1
  • V-band clamp for Waste gate inlet had casting material interfering with the nut seating all the way to lock it tight.  It slowly backed off over the past few months but the way the clamp sits, it looked all the way clamped, in reality when the manifold heated up, the clamp expanded and we lost boost.  Fixed that last month used washers to keep the nut in range of a socket during tightening.  
  • Methanol kit has been flaking operationally speaking and this has cause many tune revisions.  I believe this was a combination of bad luck, first harness was bad, kink in hard water line, now what looks to be a possible ground issue which I will fix after getting the system back to stock, re-tuned then will prep for the new turbo.

 

I am keeping the exhaust, and I have another downpipe ordered, I am just changing the turbo itself.

Sounds like alot of work but its a 4 hour job to swap back to stock, and it will take a little over 3 hours maybe less to put the new unit in with my existing exhaust setup. In reality its basically and afternoons work.

Benefits are:

  •  same power output with more low to mid range torque and a 3 to 3.2k rpm max spool. Its an upgrade :)

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#794 Bananana

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Posted March 7, 2017 - 01:34 AM

Finished returning the car to stock, with the exception of course of the methanol, colder plugs, IC, any driveline stuff, tuner etc.  Running Cobb stage 2 93 tune (as I have no downpipe cannot run stage 3, I mean I prob can but...)

 

I forgot how fun the quick spool thing is with the stock turbo.... I however need to tighten my hot side charge pipe, I kinda figured I may not have given it enough turns, cannot maintain boost hits peak then just blows out to about 10-13 PSI so I can hear the air leaking so I gotta get under there and get a few more turns on it.  The screw is in an odd spot and since the clamp it attached to the hose with little crimped on teeth, it moves away from you while tightening.  =)

 

I may just say screw it and toss a good tbolt clamp above it and angle the nut where I can get it and just double it and leave the stock one as is =)...  Should have removed it and used the tbolt one to begin with hehe.  But the car is running pretty well as expected for its boost level but its a blast around town in 1st and second, whereas the big turbo is more a 2nd through 4th thing.  First gear has been useless for so long hehe.  Hence why I am getting the twin scroll unit.


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#795 Bananana

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Posted March 12, 2017 - 04:47 PM

Since I had the old stock intake pipe I cut up for the converted MAP intake to mount to my stock air box, and I have a boost leak I took the stock silicon coupler off and made a boost leak tester out of it....

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Not making stock boost just holding 10Psi, gotta find that leak :) Should be runnin 23/24 Psi on the COBB ots tune. Car itself is running fine and 3 to 10 psi is sufficient to get around :) but...

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#796 Bananana

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Posted April 3, 2017 - 11:03 PM

Boost leak issue resolved, ended up being one of the reference lines going to the EBC.  Most likely the line from the compressor to EBC. I think the EBC was not getting proper boost and it was making changes based on this.  The reason I think this is, normally any lack of signal to the Wastegate usually results in overboost not lack of boost, and since it was spiking then base line 9-10PSI only I think it may be a combo.   Everything was plumbed correctly but the lines were modified for the MAP kit.  If the line on the compressor outlet side was leaking under load it could loose that much boost in theory.  The second theory could also just be the EBC was just bad, as I had similar but not as dramatic boost issues on the MAP kit, not 10-14PSI only 2-5 but still higher than it should have been, and since the hoses were rearranged and sorta placed back to stock whatever issue probably was compounded.  Since the boost controller is electronic there could be varying levels of failure, could be reading signals incorrectly and opening the WG too early at the wrong boost level etc.  So either way all good.

 

Either way the car is running fantastic, running the OTS COBB tune and its quite good. 

 

When the turbonetics kit is released it will be such an easy swap.

 

Oddly enough I never used my new and improved boost leak tester heh, never got that far its not as simple as removing the stock airbox, its a circus with the stock setup, diverter pipe has to be removed, coolant reservoir moved, just to see the compressor inlet and then getting this tester in there around the BOV its in a funny spot. 

 

But hey better have it and not need it...


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#797 Bananana

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 01:27 AM

Just over 30K on the odometer and I have a bad lower control arm, this is not unexpected, the I think a combo of the great curbing of 2015 that did a number on the rear suspension, hubs, wheels etc, and the extremely poor road conditions in Boston on my way out of work every night has put its toll on my front end.

I did some suspension work to stiffen it up a bit to help with control etc, I was talking with my buddy at the shop and suggested I replace both left and right lower control arms to keep things evenly worn.

I ran the numbers and there is just an $80 dollar difference between the stock components and the performance pack parts (spherical bearings, brake cooling plates etc.). I think I will just swap out both upper and lowers on both sides with the PP units, will get a better deflecting part, plus better bearings. (albeit stiffer I think but that is ok with me). The control arm setup is a little different on the S550 where upper and lower CAs are not really upper and lower, they are almost on the same level as the strut setup plays a roll in the setup. So really other than where its mounted on the spindle's knuckle they are single arm CA design in a v formation. I like the setup I suppose it helps with travel geometry and is lighter than the old conventional setup. Will be interesting to see how it handles.

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#798 Bananana

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 05:44 PM

So been working on the wonky methanol system *sigh* again.  I have to say it has not been fun..  Current operation is zero, on the plus side when its supposed to pump at least it is kicking off the fail safe because its not pumping when it shows it is (progressive LED lights up at 10psi starting point)

 

I tested the system, pump test passes so the system is controlling the pump and there is no blockage in the line (which is good that was the last problem I had.)  Wiring has not changed and its all soldered not crimped.  AEM is sending me another controller.  In the mean time because I hate working under the dashboard, I purchased a weather proof box used for electronics and will be mounting the controller in the engine bay instead of under the dash.  This will also alleviate wire clutter under there with the harness and make access to most of the connections easier to get at as well as testing, and adjustments.  I ordered another wire harness so I can redo the wiring as the old harness is cut to suite under the dashboard install.  While I was at it I finally got a filter, and I ordered a second nozzle setup so I can have a spare, extra hard water line, and injector valve.

 

The mounting box is fairly small like 4" x 2.8" by 1.5" and it is black abs so it will not stick out.  I just need to go to the hardware store after it arrives and get a grommet that I can drill out a hole for, and one small hole for the vacuum source for the internal MAP sensor.  


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#799 Bananana

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 07:00 PM

Oh on a related note I am ordering my new turbo next month to hopefully arrive during my vacation.  I am ordering a Vargas Turbocharger Technologies VVT Stage two twin scroll drop in turbo replacement.  This unit has a twin scroll housing for stock like spooling but a larger inducer and exducer blade.  Stock the EBM uses a 47.2mm inducer and a 60mm exducer, my Precision turbo was a 58mm/62mm.  The new turbo will have a 54.1mm inducer and 74.1mm exducer (6.9mm/26.9mm larger). (This is a stage 2 setup)  There is a stage 2+ which almost matches the inducer/exducer size of my Precision turbo except it has a larger exducer 76.6mm (14.6mm larger).  this stage 2 is capable of over 500whp where the stage 2+ is about the same as my old turbo 640+.  

 

The objective is to go bigger, use more boost and get the same net gains I had with the single scroll precision kit but with a stock like spool.  FYI it will do 400 lb-ft somewhere around 3300-3500 RPMS as opposed to the stock 279ish or at 3900-4500 like with the Precision unit.  Currently I am making about 368 lb-ft in that rpm range tuned.  However it still falls flat on its face around 5k, where this turbo will roll to redline and with more power.

 

This unit is a drop in so I expect it to take roughly 45 Minutes to swap the units.  I will be replacing the hot side piping, and will get a down pipe from MAP to go with my exhaust I still have (All 3" to dual 2.5") 


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