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  1. Last week
  2. My bad, didn't look close enough and read well enough...yeah, the 170 will do fine...my ancient Mig151(10+ year old harbor freight special) did the job fine for all the metal work. I have a much nicer Vulcan ProTig200 but I didn't use it because TIG is just so much slower and more difficult when you are contorting around inside the car, but I am impressed enough by the Vulcan for the things I do use it for that I am considering picking up a Vulcan multi-process to replace the ancient Chicago Electric MIG. Another consideration since you are there anyway...think about getting the dual exhaust reinforcement panels, so the hangers dont tear through the new floors:
  3. Its not just a flux core that is the Mig 170 its flux/solid core welder but its 110/240v I will be doing gas mig welding the spot and stitch welds, and may only use the flux core on structural stuff if at all. It is a middle of the road welder in that line up between the 140A and 200A. I was going to go with a vulcan for the higher duty cycle but this welder was on sale and to be honest is more than I need. I was given a Chicago Electric flux 90 welder but its not very good for the work I need to do, that was the one I was referencing, the one in the pic is the one I bought for the body work etc. The Vulcan omni pro is not a bad welder either has a spot weld feature which is nice but I think I can deal with that manually lol. They do make a transition pan that starts at trans hump just behind the front seats and it includes the shock mount and top of the rear trunk, but not the entire trunk, if you did not want to fab you could just get the transition pan and cut those rear buckets forward and graft it in like I am going to do, I do not need to replace the whole pan but since I will be in there anyway I may just do it to be complete.
  4. To be honest, for working with sheet metal I would return the flux welder and pay the extra for a MIG, flux core will want to burn through sheet metal a lot easier....although, you can actually use flux core wire in a MIG welder(with gas) with good results. If you are replacing the rear floor pan extensions anyway...all the 65-70 pans are the same shape...however, the 65 pans have a built-in e-brake cable channel. It can be useful to have that depending on your rear brake setup...it passes the e-brake cable over the rear frame rail and under the pan itself: Also, one area you need to examine closely is the rear ledge these pans sit on: I had to hand-fab the area, since they don't sell it unless you get the whole "trunk floor"
  5. So far so good. I think I am going to go with the tap and drill method. I am confident the passenger side hole can't hit anything....as for the driver's side hole, I doubt it will hit any water passages or oil galleys either(assuming a reasonable depth) I cant imagine they would run differently in the ecoboost head vs the cyclone...and worst case scenario, even if I drilled into one, I could just install some thread sealant on the bolt securing the crossover down and it wouldn't be a problem....people plug oil galley holes with bolts/plus all the time in various head conversions without issue. The only issue I can see is getting the passenger side hole started correctly might be a bit of a challenge...since it falls on the slope past the machined surface as you can see in the picture....but that is the beauty of transfer punches...I highly recommend buying a set for anyone who does a lot of fab work...one of my favorite tools.
  6. Looks like it was delivered today. Let me know if there are any issues.
  7. Earlier
  8. I have a new upper cowl, torque box and trunk brackets on the way. Once I take apart the drivers side cowl, and check things out I will have a better idea whats going on. Still need more tools. Hammer and dolly set, spot weld cutter etc. Also need to get a transition pan to finish off the floors. Unfortunately we lost a resouce as Mustangs unlimited closed thier doors.
  9. Still going strong gathering parts etc. Got a new welder, been playing with a small flux welder for a couple of weeks gotta get a 75/25 tank for final production welds when Im ready.
  10. I sent you a message through the site.
  11. Works for me, just get me a price shipped to 37033 and your email and I can send a paypal payment
  12. Here are pictures of them. Just a slight corner cut off of one of the mounting holes.
  13. Did you ever manage to dig out that ecoboost 3.5L water tube and crossover pipe? Getting close now to when I will need them: Stripping the wiring down to the bare minimum at this point so its just those water pipes and some flexplate/flywheel pieces I need to get the engine to a point I can turn it over and hopefully get it idling.....well, and some type of temp fuel pump to hook up to a gas jug.
  14. I wish I could offer some advice but I have zero experience welding. I took my intake to a welder and paid a lot more than I would have liked but I had no option and he did a great job.
  15. Welding aluminum is the easiest way to turn metal into Swiss cheese. Lol. I have only done it for about 2 total hours worth of time, including set up, dick around, blow some holes, blow more holes, and then move on to stainless lol. It was ~10 years ago in freshmen intro to welding. Gooooood times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Still having trouble welding aluminum...no real surprise there, just starting out TIG welding aluminum and don't have enough experience for this particular task...I may well re-start and outsource this task...or rather, outsource the initial set of stacks while I practice welding more to make my own(since I would like to have several different lengths available) I am getting better...but aluminum is so soft that I have collapsed several pieces already putting too much heat into them and I am getting tired of re-making flanges and wasting tubing.
  17. I am sure I will need the same area cut for the adapter plates...they are pretty close in shape and size to your flanges after all. Did you re-drill and tap the head out of curiosity for the different ecoboost 3.5 bolt pattern?
  18. I do and would. I'll get them out of the garage today and send you pics because I had to cut a little off of the crossover for it to fit the intake flange. The mounting holes are a bit different on the one side.
  19. It's a treat to watch this come together, thank's for the views and the R&D.
  20. Unclenard....do you still have that Ecoboost 3.5 coolant crossover and coolant pipe you were using with your manifold? If so, interested in offloading them? I am collecting the parts needed to start the engine on the stand, and those 2 are on the list.
  21. Epic! So epic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. This weekend I did some work on getting flanges on the throttle bodies. While there is nothing technically wrong with the coupler setup, by adding true flanges, if I ever choose to use forced induction on the car, I eliminate a lot of possible boost leaks: I beveled the inside slightly to gain more clearance for the fuel rail...last thing I need is some crazy rubbing that punctures the rail and spills gas all over the engine bay. And then...ran out of argon for the TIG...but at least I got the tubing tacked to the flanges...the clocking here is critical...I have almost no space between the tubes in a crossover setup...and the crossover setup is needed to maximize room within the shock tower brace.
  23. Haha...I am in bad need of doing and "old people's" bath remodel myself...bought the house with a walk-in tub...talk about annoying.
  24. Projects blend together as the garage & patio are designed, also I have a new "Old People's Bath" remodel I had done by two guy in three days! I am working so much to pay bills I have zero time for events or any other fun activities.
  25. And I thought the stock manifold was bad for hood clerance...
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