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  1. Today
  2. Circling back around to the final ITB task...airbox design, not finalized...but... I have decided on this orientation for the airhorns...pointed backward(or forward) it will take a bit of customization, but I have determined it will work. Which necessitates an airbox in this general shape and size...huge I know, but maybe I can hide the size if I make it out of polycarbonate or plexiglass(and use a heat gun to neatly curve it.) Or maybe I can make it into some type of psuedo engine cover on a glace
  3. Yesterday
  4. OPMustangs high temp caliper dust boots on, and man, the old burnt ones were a huge pain to take off. All but two came off easy, but the two that were cooked took a solid hour to get off just slowly picking and poking them apart. Also, vorshlag did me dirty, had to use a drill press mill to open this hole up cleanly for my brake ducting back plate. Also, at full lock my tires run on the ducts, not sure if that is normal or not... and I do have steering stops so it’s not even normal full lock. I’ll have to inquire on FB I suppose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Welded up the new crossmember today...jacking pad included, DOM tubing so its capable of being used to jack up the entire front end(though I doubt I will utilize that all too often) also plumbed up the vacuum tank(used to be a catch can) for the ITBs...the only ITB task left at this point is the airbox...and I am still struggling with exactly how I want to do this
  6. Earlier
  7. Ah well, all finished now: (ignore the scrap metal I have jammed under the mount as a shim, just seeing where my driveline angle was) I moved on to the oil filter housing...it wont fit with the motor mount bracket and alternator being where they are now, so I cut it down to the flange, tapping it for 1/2" NPT fittings...will be using a remote oil filter relocation kit instead(because nothing can be easy)
  8. That is a bummer. Maybe they are hinting that you need some NO2 on that thing.
  9. Sounds pretty evil....I noticed several project cars back that cars always sound much more "snarly" without a cat but much more refined with one....its actually one of the reasons I always put cats in my builds now, I like less snarl and more refinement.
  10. I thought I was going to be able to finish this today....then I find out that my local AirGas gave me NO2 instead of CO2/Argon ....for the record, Nitrous makes a terrible shielding gas...I was so tempted to pull out my stick welder to finish it, but that thing is horrible to work with on a 20 amp breaker
  11. Re-fabricating my transmission crossmember...very time consuming for a single piece...probably because I was under the car working by feel half the time and it went in and out about 20 times for revisions(cant jack the car up when fabbing a trans crossmember since you have to reference the pinion and trans flange angles as the car sits under normal circumstances) one of those tasks you really want a lift for whenever possible. Not the most pleasing visually, but shape is dictated by the longtube header collectors on the outside and the MT82 trans on the inside....do still have to finish the tail section where the mount bolts to, but that is the easy part.
  12. Front sump pan test fit...there will still need to be some work done here obviously, but for a pan I picked up for $100 from someone's halted swap in an import its surprisingly close to what I need.
  13. Just fooling around with what I have on-hand...here I have the couplers that came with the ITBs and some PVC pieces that were glued together for a pea trap for a sink that was trashed for being a garbage setup...so cut a section of the PVC, sliced it in half with a hacksaw, and slid the resulting collar around the stack...the collar fits inside the coupler(the other side of the couple fits perfectly around the flange joint in the middle of the stack) so theoretically I could come up with an entire system that would bolt and unbolt from the stacks, but I doubt I could get it airtight enough to hold boost...(not that I really plan on boosting the engine, but you never know) but it would be tight enough to reliably filter air. At the very least, it would allow me to use a plastic or fiberglass sheet bolted to the PVC collars to use as a plug for the fiberglass. I am having a hard time figuring out how to lay the fiberglass though...as you can see from the pictures earlier...the horns all need to be pointed slightly forward and outward...so I have to lay the lay the fiberglass with the horns in place....the problem being that will need to be vertical, not sure just how well that will go.
  14. CF works basically the same as glass. They eve. Have resins that work for both. But your correct, could do base layers as glass and cover with CF just to look the part. I vote for this plan! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Actual CF stacks would be difficult without a purpose-made plug(though I guess technically these stacks are 20% CF already) but dual CF airboxes would certainly be a possibility with that method...but I have never worked CF before...it seems like it would be a huge PITA version of fiberglass...not much worse though if I consider its only the final couple layers that matter cosmetically....an enclosed box you wouldn't have to worry about the cosmetics inside...and to seal the whole thing you could layer CF over the elbow portion of the stacks...the whole thing could theoretically even hold boost pressures then.
  16. Could always 3d print the pieces and lay CF on those, and then break the 3d print out... giving you sexy CF stacks. Wouldn’t be that hard either! Maybe more work than it’s worth, but that could totally work. Put a peel ply layer between the CF and the print and it would totally work, probably. The resin may stick to the print to much and it would be hard to break out. But I’m sure there is material specific for this application. My buddy is the RE for CF stuff here at work, I can always ask him for the name. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. In other news, I lucked out here...someone was going to swap a 3.7l into some import and had a front-sump pan made for the swap...however he lost interest in the swap and sold the engine to a mustang guy who had no use for the pan...so I picked it up for $140...saves me a huge headache of fabricating one from scratch.
  18. I like Ross Machining, but they are geared toward actual intake manifold fabrication...sadly they dont offer stacks with a complete bellmouth in 2" inside diameter(would have to be a custom order). As for 3d printers...I too have a buddy with one...but he says his particular model wont get hot enough to use nylon, and the other plastic options aren't ideal for this type of thing. I did think of one possible solution though: If you notice the flange where the inner and outer portions of the horn are welded together(speaking of which, the horns are made out of CF20....which is carbon fiber reinforced nylon). Anyway, the flange represents the possibility to make a two piece wall that is able to clamp around that flange(very much like a v-band exhaust clamp...for that matter a v-band could possibly fit)...once you have a wall clamped around that flange, you can build out an airbox from that that will enclose just the 2nd half of the horns. What I really need to do is figure out a way to lay fiberglass is such a way as to catch that flange...it will have to be thick enough to be able to clamp down around it and possibly include an o-ring for sealing...oh how I hate working with fiberglass...but for this I have a feeling it will be critical. P.S. I just thought of another way to do this instead of fiberglass...its actually a variation on the way I created the bell-crank. The bell-crank for the ITBs looks like 1 piece of aluminum...but its not. It needed to be a throttle drum as well as a bell crank so what I did was take 3 1/8" pieces of aluminum and sandwich them together with the middle piece being smaller than the 2 outer pieces...creating a channel for the cable to ride in without having to have a lathe, then I used the throttle balls as a way to screw the 3 plates together(I actually threaded them in directly without even having to use a tap). So...I can build a 2-piece back wall with this same method that sandwiches the flange between them...this allows me to use whatever material I chose(PVC sheet, nylon, plexiglass, fiberglass sheet, aluminum, delrin etc) all without the mess of laying fiberglass. Something of this nature...I should even be able to had-fab it with a couple of hole saws and a cut off wheel:
  19. MPT PRX tune is in, definitely more engine braking after jumping off the pedal up top. Its still a drive by wire, they can only do so much, but it is improved which is nice. All the amazing backfires, are gone. I assume this is because the aggressive engine braking? No fuel being added and cam timing being adjusted? I am not sure, I asked, and because I am 12 at heart, I asked if it would be possible to tune them back in bellow 3500 RPM so when I am around town I can be a turd. Motor feels strong, what is most notable is it feels less peaky and more fluid and smooth. Who knows, it may make less torque overall, only a dyno would really be able to tell me im sure, but it is more fluid and uniform. Best way I can describe it, I always said my fathers 997.1 Carrera 4s felt like it had smooth power delivery, this feels more akin to that. Its no Porsche motor, but it is leaning more towards that direction than previously. It feels a little less pissed off up top based on the sound, but thats hard to know, and I can imagine it needs some learning. I saw 0 max knock and -6 min. I sent the log to MPT, we will see what they come back with.
  20. I don’t have access to one at work, wish I did... but a buddy does. It’s a 3D printer that would actually make a part strong enough for this application. The ones I can use are normal layer printers, he has a liquid bed that solidifies the part shape as it grows, basically as close to injection molding as you can get without actually injection molding. To bad I don’t have one, could make one hell of a cool velocity stack system to your exact specifications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I bit on the expensive side but might be an option. I used their oval ones. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/200vstack.html
  22. So I found a link explaining how to make your own bellmouths out of PVC: https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-25mm.htm This is appealing for several reasons...first off, PVC tubing is measured by inside diameter rather than outside diameter like a lot of tubing...and a 50mm throttle plate like I have is an oddball size when trying to find velocity stacks that actually fit...second...PVC is easily workable and you can find sizes like 50mm(2") in many different bends as well as flat sheets...PVC is also easily bonded with PVC glue. In addition to all that, its also a very smooth plastic requiring little to no finish polishing for best airflow. The downside is that it has a maximum recommended temp of 140 degrees....a touch on the low side for underhood temps....however it has been successfully used many times to make intake manifolds and the flexibility in velocity stack design is appealing. I will run with the M5 air horns for now, but I am certainly going to play with PVC for an air-box capable setup. Or...as a more extreme idea: https://www.acmeplastics.com/acrylic-tubes/acrylic-cast-clear-tube I could make clear velocity stacks using the same methods using either acrylic or polycarbonate....that might be amusing to do.
  23. Dont get me wrong though....I want an airbox that is easily removed just for vanity reasons...maybe a temporary airbox just for tuning and daily driving purposes, but that can be removed for going to shows and the like? Using Megasquirt 3 so I wont actually have any need for the MAF once the tune is locked in solidly.
  24. Solid points. My brain saw velocity stacks and just went carbureted motor, obviously I know this is not. But I didn’t even think about it... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. The airbox is a practical concern for 2 reasons: 1: Filtering...using individual filters always results in significant power loss on ITB setups. 2. Tuning....if I make an airbox(s) and connect it to a single air inlet pipe that means I can run a MAF sensor and tuning becomes a breeze...without a MAF, it will be quite the challenge with both Ti-VCT and ITBs...as it is, I am going to have a grand ol time getting a clean MAP signal from this setup. I have a feeling I am going to have to blatantly copy BMWs dual vacuum manifold setup(problematic since these ITBs dont have needle valves...might have to use an actual BMW idle valve just to get it working right,
  26. You could make two air boxes, one for each side. Or, run it without! Lol. Looks so amazing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. M5 air horns...need to decide which way to clock them....thinking toward the inside(gives me much better shock tower brace clearance). These 2 are the oddball test horns...the other 6 turn downward at the 2nd part of the bend. Also finished my longtube equal length headers yesterday....very soon now I can pull the engine to finish up metalwork and prep and paint the car...then it can finally start going back together. How exactly am I supposed to make an airbox for this?
  28. Thank's for the heads up on OPMUSTANGS.com as to the trans fluid, I am flushing & replacing filter this year. I already did the BG fluid change 75w140w for my rear diff. Happy New Year!
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